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Learn to crochet the Tunisian top stitch - aka bump stitch. It is a VERY easy stitch and the stitch is also very fast to work with. You crochet beautiful scarfs and more with this stitch.

If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.

Updated and split into two posts in September 2021. Originally from September 2016.

Tunisian Top Stitch

Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Make a foundation row of just about 10 chains - or cast on if you prefer that. Now you are ready for the first row of Tunisian Crochet Top Stitches.

Related posts:
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)

Forward Pass

You need to locate and hook into the 'bump' from the return passes. It's on top - and maybe a little behind - the vertical strings, we often use in Tunisian crochet. It is very similar to the back bumps of a chain row you use for a traditional foundation row.

Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.

If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.

1. Insert the hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. Yarn-over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. (img below)

2. *Insert the hook into a bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.*
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.

Return Pass

3. Left edge: Chain one (pull through one loop only).

4. *Yo and pull through two loops.*
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.

You are now done with the second row :) Make a couple more rows just for practice.

Finishing Off

You end it like you do on regular crochet. Cut the yarn end and pull it through the last loop on the hook - at the right side of your work.

Tips

Tip 1. Leave extra long ends when you start and when you finish. Weaving the ends in and out takes more yarn than other stitches.

Tip 2. When you are doing a back motion, then stretch the work a little with your left hand. This gives your work a more uniform look.

Tip 3. In a return pass: When you need to pull yarn from the yarn ball, then hold on to the first loop with your index finger, so you don't accidentally pull the previous bump too tight.

Make a Scarf

Imagine a scarf made purely with the Tunisian Top Stitch. Great drape, right?!
If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.

Have fun with it :)

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Here is a nice little FREE spider web pattern.

Use it for a coaster or make more rounds and use it as a table topper. Once you get the pattern it is very simple and you decide how big you want it.

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

You can make it of any yarn you want and then a relatively large hook. Btw, I recommend a dark but NOT BLACK yarn, to begin with. It is VERY difficult to find the right places to insert the hook, when using black yarn and working with waistcoat stitches.

I’ve tried two combos that worked well for me:
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)

Wool yarn blend (orange) and cotton yarn (black). Both with yardage around 210m/50gr (230yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 4 mm (US G-6)

Cotton Yarn - Fingering

Cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage around 170m/50gr (186yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 5 mm (US H-8)

If you are making a coaster meant for warm chocolate, tea, or coffee, you should use pure cotton yarn.

Instructions

The spider web pattern is based upon Tessa’s Triangles (a hexagon pattern). You can find tips and secrets in Tessa’s Triangles that can be useful for the spider web as well.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet stitch
ss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around

A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Start with the web color (dark).

Foundation

6 loose sc in a magic ring. Add a stitch marker between the legs of each stitch if it helps you.

Join the round with an ss-blo in the first sc.
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.

Round 1)

*ws in the current sc (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *

Note. Work the final ss-blo into the first ws of the round.

Round 2)

*ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in every ss,

ss-blo in the next ws while changing color *

Round 3-4)
Repeat round 2

Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.

More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.

Final Two Rounds

Round 7)

Repeat round 2

Round 8)

ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),

* ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,

2 ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the second ws) *

Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.

Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.

Happy Halloween!

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Waistcoat stitches in the round are fantastic for colorwork. They stack neatly, create a smooth, uniform fabric, and fill up space beautifully.

If you’d like to try it, I’ve put together a small chart along with a few helpful tips.

Waistcoat stitches worked in the round are great for projects like pillows, bags, cowls, beanies, and more.

For my sample, I added 8 stitches to a round, and then the colorwork happened to fit an old glass. So, now the glass can be upgraded into a fancy crochet hook holder. - And yes, the glass is very happy with its new look.

The Heart Chart

I created the heart chart using StitchFiddle. I've shared it, so you can view or copy the chart for easy editing. FYI. StitchFiddle offers a handy progress tracker to help you keep your lines straight.

If you prefer a paper version, click and print this image.

Never tried a Crochet Chart before?

If you're new to reading crochet charts, don't despair, it is easy to learn the basics: Each rectangle in the chart represents one stitch. Since this pattern is worked in the round, keep working in the same direction and do not turn your work. Read every round from right to left (if you are left-handed from left to right) and keep following the chart in the same direction as you crochet.

Just to let you know how easy it is, here is a written version of the beginning - BUT, please read additional notes further below before you do anything but a swatch:

Foundation. Chain 33 or more (I made 41).

Work 1 single crochet stitch into each chain. (I prefer turning the chain over to insert my hook into the back bumps.). This is line 1 on the chart.
Do not turn - instead, join into a ring by making a waistcoat stitch in the first stitch of your first line. Continue working in the round. As you follow the chart, work each stitch in the color shown for that rectangle.
Continue working in the round and remember to change color right before every colored rectangle - see color change tip at the bottom of the page.

Repeat line 3.

❤️ · ❤️ · ❤️

Tips n Tricks

To get the best out of the waistcoat stitch colorwork, these additional notes can be helpful.

Keep the Waistcoat Stitches Straight

Waistcoat stitches don’t have to lean a lot! For a cleaner look make waistcoat stitches the right way. Insert your hook right before the vertical bar at the back of the stitch. (If you’re right-handed, this means inserting the hook on the right side of the bar.) This utilizes softer stitches and fabric and the stitches will lean a lot less.

Tension & Sizing

In case size is important to you.

The chart is designed for a gauge of 20 stitches × 28 rows per 10×10 cm (4″×4″).
I used a 4mm hook (US: G6) and Scheepjes Organicon, a very soft cotton yarn.
The final size of my work will be around 10cm (4") wide and 8 cm (3.1") tall. - Remember I added 8 sts to the chart for a full round.

I crocheted quite tight, so you can likely achieve the same gauge with maybe a 3mm hook (US:~D3) and a looser tension.

The hearts should still look great even if your gauge isn’t exact, but if size matters, be sure to make a swatch first.

Tapestry or Not?

Decide whether you want to:

Carry and crochet over the unused yarn throughout as for tapestry crochet
or let the unused strands float on the back. If you want to keep them under control, either twist the strands or just crochet over the unused yarn at every 4-6 stitch

Note. In tapestry crochet using waistcoat stitches, it is easy to accidentally catch the carried yarn when pulling up a loop. Also, be aware that tapestry crochet makes the fabric slightly taller, as each row takes up more space.

Color Changes

Make smooth color transitions by changing color at the last yarn-over of the previous stitch - except when creating a single, isolated 'V' in the design. In that case, simply pull up the alternate color once, then continue with the main color.

Happy crocheting! ❤️

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StoneGnome

Tunisian Top Stitch

Forward Pass

Return Pass

Finishing Off

Tips

Make a Scarf

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

Instructions

Final Two Rounds

What to Choose

The Patterns

The Heart Chart

Never tried a Crochet Chart before?

Tips n Tricks

Keep the Waistcoat Stitches Straight

Tension & Sizing

Tapestry or Not?

Color Changes

Happy crocheting! ❤️

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