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The waistcoat stitch is a brilliant two-faced thing. But be aware of the waistcoat stitch trap!

The knit stitch aka waistcoat stitch

To unlock the waistcoat stitch's full potential, it helps to know its secrets and understand the nuances of the waistcoat stitch.

Most crocheters call the waistcoat stitch dense and sturdy while a few of us love it for its drapiness and flexibility.

And why is that? Because there are at least TWO versions of the waistcoat stitch! They differ slightly in appearance and significantly more in structure and flexibility.

You should know about both versions, so you can choose which one to use for a project.

How to Work the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

The Basics

The stitch is created by inserting the hook between the legs of the next stitch.

And then there is a trap: There is a vertical bar at the back of the stitch*. It matters whether the hook is inserted before or after this vertical bar. Zoom in at the topmost image to see it.

*Note. Actually, there are two bars at the back. The main culprit is a very straight up-and-down (vertical) bar, while the other is slanted and sits on the side of the stitch. The slanted strand is positioned so far to the side that I doubt anyone considers using it today when working a 'normal' waistcoat stitch. If we count it, we have 3 versions of the stitch. I will disregard this 3rd version for now.

The Most Common Waistcoat Stitch version

Most crocheters naturally insert the hook AFTER the vertical bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this is at the left side of the back bar. This is the natural motion when you have the hook in one hand and push it into a stitch.

The waistcoat stitch, natural move of the hook

This gives you one version of the stitch. The denser one.

Currently, the tight version of this stitch is commonly demonstrated in tutorials for the waistcoat stitch. It is likely that most crocheters are not aware of the alternative option or do not consider it to be important.

The 'Secret' Waistcoat Stitch version

Another option is to insert the hook BEFORE the bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this means inserting the hook at the right side of the back bar.

This gives you another version of the stitch. A stitch with more drape.

Stitch Hacks

There are different approaches of how to insert the hook when working the last stitch version.

Method #1
Some crocheters elegantly twist their hook, angling it more directly into the stitch or even slightly backward, in the opposite direction. Some of my testers prefer this.
Olga Poltava recently uploaded a YouTube video demonstrating this way of entering a stitch.

Method #2
I prefer to use the lip/nose of my hook to guide the hook into the right place. If necessary, I can use my fingertip at the back of my work to keep the back bar clear of the hook

If you want to try the nose/lip first, then take a look here:



Tips for the Drapey version
  • Find a hook that works for you AND the stitch. Avoid a bulb-headed hook. It's challenging to insert a very blunt crochet hook into the center of a stitch.

    I prefer a tapered hook. However, I did have testers that worked fine with Susan Bate's inline hooks.

  • Crochet lose and control your tension. Once you have pulled up a loop lift your hook a little above the work to crochet looser. 
Read more: How to Change and Control Your Tension

And be patient. If you've never tried this version before, it's like learning a new stitch, so, it may take some time to become accustomed to.

What is the difference?

There are differences between the two versions.

Leaning and Dense

The dense version of the stitch captures more yarn, resulting in a structure where the strands are more entangled and closely packed together within each stitch. This tight interlocking of strands reduces flexibility.

As the denser stitch version grabs the back bar, it is pulled slightly to the side, causing the waistcoat stitches to lean. 

The leaning and dense waistcoat stitch

On the wrong side of the work, the stitches create a neatly structured yet slightly skewed pattern, with the stitches shifting. Being an organized chaos or a coordinated mess.

Straight and with Drape

The less dense version of the waistcoat stitch doesn't grasp the back bar. This allows the strands within each stitch to move more freely, resulting in greater flexibility in the work. Additionally, capturing less yarn means the fabric becomes slightly lighter, creating a thinner texture. With a looser structure, the fabric also gains more drape.

The less-dense waistcoat stitch version hardly leans at all. 

The straight and softer waistcoat stitch

On the wrong side, the stitches also line up beautifully inside each other.


The origin of the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

It is often impossible to determine the exact origin of a stitch, though in this case, we have an approximate idea.

In 2013 Oombawka wrote about the waistcoat stitch and found a book from 1915 (thank you for sharing, Rhondda). The book refers to the waistcoat stitch as 'the new chain stitch', so it is possible the stitch was a recent development when the book was written. 

I recently dug into the same book and was quite surprised to find BOTH versions of the waistcoat stitches in there. 

Understanding the instructions might be a bit difficult. I have highlighted the important parts showing the differences in the working methods of the two stitches. The pictures also provide a clue to distinguish between them.

The waistcoat stitch aka the new chain stitch

It looks to me like the New Chain Stitch is the drapey version of the waistcoat stitch. It looks like the stitches should line up on both sides of the work.

The German waistcoat stitch

The second waistcoat stitch version in the book is a slanted version. At the time it was called the German Waistcoat stitch.

Just to be fair. It is unclear whether the hook is inserted to the left of just one back bar or possibly to the left of both back bars, including the slanted one.
Source: The Sunlight book of knitting and crocheting p. 25-26.

Which Waistcoat Stitch Version to use?

If a pattern does not specify a certain stitch version, it's likely that the designer is only familiar with the 'German' waistcoat stitch version and designed the pattern accordingly.

Then you can choose what to use:
  • Opting for a small hook and the dense 'German' version of the stitch results in a tight, dense, and thick fabric. Cotton yarn emphasizes this. Great for sturdy things like a hat or maybe amigurumi. You also get a nice spiral look, that can be very decorative.
  • Choosing a large hook and using soft, flexible yarn to work the drapey version of the stitch results in a fabric that looks and works more like stitch-stretchy knitted stockinette. Smooth and soft. This fabric is ideal for wearables, blankets, and even softer types of amigurumi, although using a smaller hook may be preferable to keep the filling in place.
I suggest you choose what works better for a specific project and for the result you want to achieve.

Enjoy your next waistcoat stitch project :)

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Most of us cannot crochet with both hands. Though sometimes it would be useful to be able to.

Another kind of reverse stitches

When I made wings for a pumpkin (yes, for a pumpkin, a Halloween pumpkin), I wanted the reverse side of the second wing to look like the front side. Including the small ridges. 

Updated September 2023

It would have been great if I could have worked the second wing with my left hand. Then it would truly be 'mirrored' versions of the same item.

There is an alternative. In Tunisian crochet, there is something called 'reverse stitches'. Reverse stitches in the world of regular crochet are usually related to stitches like the 'crab stitch', where you crochet in the opposite direction (right-handed work from left to right).

However, with Tunisian crochet, the reverse stitches are not made in a different direction but on the reverse side of the work.

All you do is: 

  • Position the yarn in front of the hook and your work. 
  • Then, insert the hook from BEHIND the work into the regular stitch. 
  • Yarn-over, pull up a loop and complete the stitch as usual.

Regular crochet - reverse stitches
This is really all there is to it, and it can be done with regular crochet too.

Video

If you prefer a video to see how it can be done, then I made one for you here.


Try it. Practicing reverse stitches is just like learning any other new stitch. It might seem uncomfortable in the beginning, but then it gets easier and easier until it feels like a piece of cake.

:)
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A cute little hexagon made with unusual stitches.

Tessa’s Triangles - Hexagon crochet pattern

Make one little hexagon and you have a coaster. Make more hexagons and you can make a bag and with a little patience maybe even a blanket.

Introducing New Techniques

Tessa’s Triangles hexagon pattern is an introductory pattern. Learning how to work these stitches is the key to more advanced patterns. Another pattern is coming up soon at StoneGnome.com. You might also get ideas for making some on your own after making the hexagon. 

Tessa’s Triangles is a free pattern and is available in English and Danish.

Get the Pattern

Get the pattern now in StoneGnome’s new Payhip store*, on LoveCrochet, or add it to your library at Ravelry.

*Payhip will ask for your email, but that is only to make sure you get access to the pattern.

Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial. 
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.

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Tricky Parts

There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.

Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time. 

Cheat tips to get you started.
  1. Make a one-colored sample to begin with.
  2. exchange the ws in rnd 1 with loose(!) sc*. (Make ws from rnd 2.)
  3. make chains instead of slip stitches.
* It will not give you a nice star in the middle.

Anita Reinehr did tech-edit on the pattern and suggested inserting a stitch marker between the legs of every stitch of the first round, to be able to find them. See her photo on Instagram.

Visual Learner?

To support the written pattern, a video is available. Some parts might be easier to do if you see how I do it.

Direct link to the video https://youtu.be/_uiaJC1xGgQ

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Share your hexagons. Tag me on Instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or Facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3 

Have fun with this.

Tricky Triangles Teaser
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Sry for being so quiet. Here is a brief update.

I'm preparing brand new patterns and stitch patterns for you…

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Sometimes it is difficult to join or sew two pieces together and make it look good.

Tunisian Reverse Stitches - The Sides

If you have ever considered working with the Tunisian Reverse Stitch, you might want to read along here.

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Most guides about crochet and tension talks about how tight you hold the yarn with your non-dominant hand. This is only half the story, though.

Tunisian Crochet - How to Change and Control your Tension

What you do with the right hand (dominant hand) and what you do with your hook, is also important.

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What if you want to cast on for your Tunisian project and only have one hook?

Tunisian Crochet Cast On - Single Hook

Here is a way to do that. And this technique might be even easier than the two-hooks casting on.

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I have always admired, when knitters did a cast on and 1-2-3 got thousands of loops on their hooks... eh, needles.

Tunisian Crochet Cast On - Chainless

You can also cast on when doing Tunisian crochet - as in without a starting chain. And it is much faster than doing chains first.

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Fluffy and furry yarn tips
Fluffy yarn, fuzzy yarn, fur yarn or eyelash yarn. All of these long-fibered yarn types aren't always easy to crochet with. But, they look so fluffy and soft and kitten-like...

Fluffy and furry yarn tips

Here are a couple of tips for you, so you are prepared next time you find a fluffy or furry yarn.

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In my last blog post, I showed you how to link stitches. I also have a suggestion of how to do a back-linked stitch, which is much less visible.

Back-linked crochet stitches - Tutorial

Furthermore it gives you a fantastic texture and drape. This is truly useful for scarves and other things you wear.

Back-Linked Stitches

When doing 'ordinary' linked stitches, you get a visible link at the front of the stitch. Sometimes you don't want that. In that case, I've work out a method, where you use a bump on the back of a stitch to link into.

Back-linked crochet stitches
Back linked stitches. Almost invisible at the front.
See the back side below.

Notice. You can link double crochet (dc) and taller stitches (US terms), though you can also link a dc to a half double crochet stitch (hdc), if the hdc is made first.

Tutorial

Like linked stitches, back-linked stitches are also made by replacing the normal yarn-over (YO) with a link. In back-linked stitches you insert the hook into a bump on the back of the last stitch. Look at the back of a chain stitch. There is a bump there, we will use.

Taller stitches usually start with 2 or more YO. Each of these YOs should be replaced with a insert-into-the-back-bump-yo-pull-up-loop.

Foundation. Make a row of 8 chains. Turn with 2 chains. Be careful NOT to tighten the last chain and the loop on the hook too much or you cannot insert the hook in the bump.

Note. The 2nd chain from the hook will be the 'footer' of this 2-chain turn stitch (for regular linked stitches the 3rd chain is the 'footer'.)

  1. Make the first back-linked stitch by turning your work, so you can see the back of your last chain. Find the first back bump close to the hook and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 1

  1. Skip one chain and insert the hook in the next stitch/chain as you would do with a normal dc. YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 2

  1. Finalize the dc as usual. *YO and pull through two loops.* Repeat this.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 3

Back-linked crochet stitches - img 3b

  1. The back-linked stitch is done. If you count the 2-chain-stitch, there are now 2 stitches in the row.

Back-linked crochet stitches - img 4


All the following stitches look alike. Turn your work a little, so you can see and find the back bump closest to the hook.

  1. Insert the hook in the back bump. YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 5

  1. Insert the hook it the top of the previous row or chain (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 6

  1. Finalize your stitch as usual. *YO, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook.
Back-linked crochet stitches - img 7

Back-linked crochet stitches - img 7b

Turning

Turn with 2 chains. Do not tighten the last chain too much.The first linked stitch can be difficult, if you tighten your chains too much.

  1. Find the back bump of your last chain and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - turning 1

  1. Insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Back-linked crochet stitches - turning 2


Finalize the stitch as usual with *YO and pull through two loops* twice. Repeat 5)-7) all across for a full row of linked stitches.

Two rows of back-linked stitches
Two rows of back-linked stitches.

Video

I know some of you like a video. So I hope this is useful for you. Remember to click like, if you like it and I would also love if you subscribe to more on youtube.


The Geeky Note

When I had worked with linked stitches for a short while, something hit me. If you have tried linked stitches with taller stitches and if you know Tunisian crochet by heart, maybe you have seen it too. To me, linked stitches are similar to short rows of Tunisian crochet stitches.

Ordinary linked stitches are Tunisian simple stitches and the back-linked version is similar to the Tunisian top stitch - which btw, is one of my favorite Tunisian stitches due to its drape and how it can be used for a flexible rib.

What Name to Use?

So, maybe we could just call linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian simple stitch and the back-linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian top stitch?

Well... my problem is that I need to add a disclaimer here. I believe some has argued that linked stitches are NOT Tunisian stitches. I don't see any difference, but now I'm not sure, if we should call them one thing or another - or if the purpose and way of thinking of them can justify two different names.

Funny world, right?
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I'll show you how to link crochet stitches and eliminate the slit between them.

Tutorial: How to link crochet stitches

It is very useful, if you want to use a tall stitch for an amigurumi figure or just want another stitch in your stitch collection.

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The Picky Pillow Pattern now includes TWO pillows in the exquisite Twisted Stitch pattern.

Picky Pillows - now there are TWO of them

If you bought the pattern already, remember to get the updated version. If you haven't bought it yet, go get the pattern for the two beautiful pillows.

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I have a video to show you. Please notice, it is NOT a full tutorial :)



See, what just happened?

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Picky Pillow. Supports you when you crochet or knit.
The Picky Pillow pattern is now available. The pillow is designed to support you when you crochet or knit - or just want to relax.

Picky Pillow. Supports you when you crochet or knit.

The Tunisian twisted stitch pattern is used and a full photo tutorial for this is included in the pattern, so all you have to know in advance, is the Tunisian simple stitch and how to do regular single crochet.

NOTICE

For a limited time only, the pattern is available at an INTRODUCTION PRICE.

...AND if you buy it now, then make sure you are logged in, as you should then automatically get access to updates. You might be happy about that later on... hint, hint.

Buy the Pattern

The pattern is available in English (US terms) from Ravelry and LoveCrafts. It is also available in Danish, where it is called 'Pernitten Pude'. Find the Danish version at LoveCrafts and Ravelry.

About the Pattern

As usual you get a pattern with lots of photos and guidance helping you out.

Cro-hook

The main part of the pillow is worked in rows back and forward. You will need a cro-hook / double-ended hook for this. With or without cable. This also means that the length of your cro-hook doesn't matter much, as you don't have to do a full forward pass before you start a return pass.

The Tunisian Twisted Stitch Pattern

Inner Pillow

In the pattern I suggest using an inner pillow. This is optional as the stitches are tight enough to hold the filling in. Personally I think and inner pillow gives you a more expensive-looking pillow, and it will of course also help the pillow stay in shape. So instructions for making an inner pillow are included. And it is NOT difficult to make one.

Adjustable

The pattern also includes instructions for adjusting the pillow size any way you want. So it can fit any inner pillow you have already or whatever you decide you need.

Testers

It has been quite a journey to make this pattern. No less than three testers have helped me out and once again, I'm surprised how much testing can improve a pattern. Thank you to Marjolein, Ewa, and Karen!

Selling Finished Products

Yes, you can do that. No problem! Read more in the menu: About > Copyright, Selling and Affiliate Links

Picky Pillow.

If you have any questions, just ask. You can find me here, on Ravelry or Facebook.
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Some Tunisian patterns are easy to do, when you work in rounds, while doing rows are considered impossible, or something that requires sewing in a lot of ends.


It's just not at all impossible. Nor do you need to cut the yarn and sew in ends all the time.

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Add Colors to the Tunisian Twisted Stitch Pattern
Wow! The rarely used twisted stitch pattern looks fantastic using more colors! I didn't even realize that until Chanette asked for more colors...

Add Colors to the Tunisian Twisted Stitch Pattern

I'll show you, how you add more color to this stitch pattern row by row.
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I was asked about the washcloth / dishcloth I made for the slip stitch tutorial.

Color Stacking - Crochet

I used Color Stacking which is a member of the Planned Pooling family. A great way to have fun with colors. The tutorial here helps you with your first color stacking project.

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