StoneGnome: crochet+beyondBasics

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Make an angel display for a crocheted necklace or a beaded crochet necklace. The display can be used for selling items at a market, if you attend an exhibition, or maybe for a special gift.

Necklace Display - for Beaded Crochet Necklaces

I made the display in 2017 for an exhibition I was attending with other textile and yarn freaks; weavers, filters, knitters, and crocheters. I wanted to present my crocheted necklaces in a nice way.

UPDATE: Due to requests, this writing and the templates below have been updated in January 2023.

First, I found a template (and tutorial) at Georgia P Designs. There are cones for bracelets, a cone for a necklace, and a flat-back necklace display stand.

However, one of my necklaces comes with a tight bracelet. I wanted the necklace and the bracelet to be on the same display, which required the bottom of the template to be rather wide compared to the top of the template. Otherwise, the distance between the two would be too big.

After playing around for a little while, I ended up with a display shaped like angel wings.
The files are available from my google drive. You can get a full-size copy from the links.

Make the printed side the back of your cone. The print on the template files is rather pale, so it doesn't show through the paper.

If you can't print close to the edges, you can shrink it a bit (your printer dialog should help you with this) - OR you can ignore the missing print at the margins. It should be fairly easy to guess where to cut. Use the dotted line as a guide for the front tip.

Carefully fold it, so the back flaps overlap with about 1cm (0.4in), and glue the part that overlaps.

I've used heavy 190g A4 paper with a very smooth surface, so I sewed a couple of stitches on the back to make the necklaces and the bracelet stay in place. I've seen others cover the display with wallpaper or likewise and I'm guessing a rougher surface will prevent the necklaces from slipping.

The Exhibition

The keywords for the exhibition in 2017 were to show some of the many different things you can do with yarn and textiles. It used to be an annual recurring event in Gudhjem Museum (Denmark, Bornholm). The last years have been hard on exhibitions due to lockdowns and restrictions, but hopefully, there will be more yarn and textile exhibitions in the future.

I enjoyed the beaded crochet work a lot, so I might also need the displays again one day.

Read more: Beaded Crochet Rope Necklace

Links to Display Ideas

Here are a couple of other display ideas and templates in case you need something special.

Georgia P. Designs templates and tutorial
A Plywood Jewelry Pyramid tutorial can be found at Collectivegen.com (former 'A Pair & Spare'), which also posted templates for a couple of Wooden Jewellery Holders in May 2022.
3 other DIY Necklace displays are present at Tutorial De Artisana (eng: Craft Tutorial)

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It’s cold and dark outside. So, have a happy hour with tea, a blanket, and a new little crochet project.

Striped Christmas Bauble Crochet Pattern

I've worked on Christmas bauble ornaments lately. The first pattern is now available below. Yeah!

Skills

The bauble is an intermediate/advanced project. If you are familiar with waistcoat stitches and slip stitches, the Christmas ball pattern is likely trouble-free and you can go straight to the yarn-hook suggestions and the pattern notes.

If the stitches - or the way they are used here - are fairly new to you, a little extra effort might be required to begin with. I promise you though, that getting to know the stitches better, is very well worth it.

Want more details about this way of working? Read: Tessa's Triangles - Hexagon Pattern

You should feel comfortable making uniform stitches of all kinds and it is also good to know how to adjust the tension of your work. - If not, read this one: How to Change and Control Your Tension

The Best Hook for Waistcoat Stitches

With waistcoat stitches, use a larger hook than usual for amigurumi and larger than the yarn label suggests.

A perfect hook has a head that is slightly smaller than the neck and is pointy or has a lip/nose that makes it easy to insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Read about wellformed waistcoat stitches here: Waistcoat Stitch and Stitch Patterns in Rounds.

Yarn-Hook Combos

I used:

Scheepjes Catona (Ravelry) 125m/50gr (138 yds/1.76oz)
hook size 4mm for the main parts plus a hook size 3mm for the final round (US G6 and D3, UK 8 and 11).

A Catona-bauble will then be almost 5cm (2") wide/tall.

Alternatively use regular cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage 170m/50gr (186 yds/1.76oz) and hook size 3-3.5mm (US D3-E4, UK 10-9). For the final round use a slightly smaller hook for a nicer closing.

The Red Striped Bauble

The bauble is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral. (No joining with a slip stitch after each round).

Make not-tight stitches to make it easy to work with. Be thorough with the size of your chains. Adjust accordingly if needed, like when you change color.

Use the neck of the hook to determine the size of your stitches - and avoid tightening them after the loop leaves the hook. Otherwise, it might be difficult to make the following round.

Use 3-4 stitch markers or tiny stitch holders for the final round - And it's also nice to have a stitch marker or a long piece of yarn for marking the beginning of a round too.

Color changes are marked ‘-c’. Change color while pulling up the last loop of a stitch, so the new color is ready for the next stitch. For slip stitches, pick up the new color immediately.

Special stitches

Slip stitch decrease. Hook into the next two stitches in reverse order. Yarn-over and pull through all loops. For more info and a video, see Slip Stitch Tutorials - Part III.

Unfinished-ws. Insert the hook between the legs of a stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop only. Keep the extra loop on the hook.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see above)
slst/ slst-c = slip stitch / slip stitch with a color change
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) x4 = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round

Instructions

Start with red yarn.

Foundation
Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]

1st Half of the Red Ball

* With red. 1 ws and 1 ws-c in the next sc,
ch-c 1 with the white (change color immediately). *
Repeat all the way. [18]
* With red. 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next stitch.
With white; 1 slst-blo in the chain,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws *.
Start the next repeats in the CURRENT ws. Repeat all the way [24]
(Keep changing color so all ws are done with red yarn and all slst are done in white.)
* 1 ws in the current stitch,
1 ws-c in the next stitch,
1 slst-blo in each slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws * [30]
Repeat round 3. [36]
Repeat round 3. [42]

Tighten the Magic Ring and weave in the yarn end from the beginning of the work. - Or just tuck the loose end inside the bauble with or without a knot. (I didn't make a knot, mine are fine as they are just for decoration).

Start filling the bauble. Depending on your tension, yarn, and more, the white part might arch inward. Use this if you like - or fill the bauble firmly in the end, if you want a very round ball.

2nd Half of the Red Ball

Begin this round in the ‘current ws’ and make the repeats from the ‘next ws’.
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo in the next 4 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [42]
Repeat the previous round.
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next 2 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [36]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [30]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo-c * [24]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec-c in the slst. * [18]
* 1 ws in each ws * (Skip all slst). [12]

Final Round
Change to a hook 1 size smaller.

Make 1 ws in the first stitch and unfinished-ws the rest of the way. Every time you have 4 loops (max) on the hook, move 3 loops to a stitch marker /stitch holder (or just a piece of string). The loop you made last, keep that on the hook.

Cut a long yarn end. Pull the yarn end through all the loops on the hook and then all the loops on the stitch markers. Use a needle or a hook.

Fill the bauble - firmly for a round ball.

Tighten the yarn end and use a needle to secure it by going around in the last loops once more.

Insert the needle into the ball and let it come out from the middle of the 'star'.

Shape the Christmas bauble by hand if needed.

Have a Merry Crochet Christmas!

...Psst!

If you liked this, then try other projects using waistcoat stitches and slip stitches. You can find them under the theme Split Crochet.

The stitches are not used much with traditional patterns but are really fun to work with.

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The innovative new crochet pattern has just been released. Tricky Triangles is a mandala presenting a new way to crochet in the round.

Tricky Triangles Mandala Crochet Pattern

The mandala will be soft and drapey and excellent for making a pillow or you can make it a decorative table topper. There are a lot of other possibilities for hexagons if you google it.

The Mandala

I'm not sure if the level of it is beyond basics or advanced. It might more be a matter of preferences and whether you can find a hook that works for you.

It's colorwork and it requires you to make somewhat uniform stitches. The main stitches are slip stitches and waistcoat stitches. If you are not sure whether these stitches suit you or not, try the FREE introduction pattern Tessa's Triangles first.

Read more: Slip Stitch Tutorials.
Read more: Waistcoat stitches and Stitch Patterns in Rounds

Tricky Triangles comes with a 30% introductory discount. The discount is only available on Payhip or Ravelry and runs out in 2 weeks (Nov. 18th Copenhagen time). Use the coupon code TRICK to get the discount.

The mandala pattern is available in English (US terms) and Danish.

Get the pattern at Ravelry, at LoveCrafts, or right here via my new Payhip Store.

Tricky Triangles

Yarn, Hook sizes, and Final Sizes

In theory, you can use any three yarn balls and a relatively large hook. Preferably a hook with a relatively small head. For the best result, the yarn should be uniform and soft, with a smooth look.

The yarn I have used is very soft and likable, so I can certainly recommend it.

Peppermint and Licorice
Hook size 5mm (H-8). It gets around 30cm (11.8") wide.

Crochet Mandala. Peppermint and Licorice

Scheepjes Organicon/Bamboo Soft.
Organicon - 220 Broken Almond
Bamboo Soft – 263 Smokey Diamond (dark)
Bamboo Soft – 264 Antique Silver (grey)

(Big) Red.
Hook size 8mm (L-11). The red is approximately 37cm (14.5") wide.

Scheepjes Merino Soft.
645 Van Eyck (orange)
621 Picasso (red)
623 Rothko (dark red)

Yarn Packages

Littlebugz.dk made yarn packages for both versions. It might be of most relevance if you live in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway - or close. She is good at adding discounts on yarn packages for my patterns.

Have a look at the yarn packages at Littlebugz.

FYI. A lot of the yarn I use is sponsored by Littlebugz.dk. Littlebugz then makes yarn packages for my patterns. And in case you wonder. Littlebugz doesn't sponsor my opinion or anything other than the yarn 😊

Thank You

Thank you to all that have helped me out. Janelle did a great job before it was even a pattern. She helped me with terms and the structure of the written pattern. Then Anita Reinehr came in early to do a superb tech edit. Unusual yes, but with a new thing, it felt important to do a tech edit before having the pattern tested.

Finally, a lot of people did testing. Some just partly, some only on the early Tessa's Triangles. Thank you to all of you too; Pamela Tan, Robyn Kaltea, Ruth Lister, Jess Wells, and more.

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Here is a nice little FREE spider web pattern.

Use it for a coaster or make more rounds and use it as a table topper. Once you get the pattern it is very simple and you decide how big you want it.

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

You can make it of any yarn you want and then a relatively large hook. Btw, I recommend a dark but NOT BLACK yarn, to begin with. It is VERY difficult to find the right places to insert the hook, when using black yarn and working with waistcoat stitches.

I’ve tried two combos that worked well for me:
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)

Wool yarn blend (orange) and cotton yarn (black). Both with yardage around 210m/50gr (230yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 4 mm (US G-6)

Cotton Yarn - Fingering

Cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage around 170m/50gr (186yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 5 mm (US H-8)

If you are making a coaster meant for warm chocolate, tea, or coffee, you should use pure cotton yarn.

Instructions

The spider web pattern is based upon Tessa’s Triangles (a hexagon pattern). You can find tips and secrets in Tessa’s Triangles that can be useful for the spider web as well.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet stitch
ss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around

A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Start with the web color (dark).

Foundation

6 loose sc in a magic ring. Add a stitch marker between the legs of each stitch if it helps you.

Join the round with an ss-blo in the first sc.
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.

Round 1)

*ws in the current sc (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *

Note. Work the final ss-blo into the first ws of the round.

Round 2)

*ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in every ss,

ss-blo in the next ws while changing color *

Round 3-4)
Repeat round 2

Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.

More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.

Final Two Rounds

Round 7)

Repeat round 2

Round 8)

ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),

* ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,

2 ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the second ws) *

Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.

Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.

Happy Halloween!

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Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.

I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?

I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.

The Color Pattern

I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.

Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart

Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.

Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens

This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.

Hook. Use a 5mm hook

Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).

- - -

Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.

Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.

From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).

Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.

Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.

The Thumb

Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.

Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.

The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.

Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.

Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).

Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).

Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.

Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.

Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).

Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.

Finalizing the Hand

Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.

Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.

Finalizing the Thumb

Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.

Would You like to Try?

Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.

Have fun :)

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