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It’s cold and dark outside. So, have a happy hour with tea, a blanket, and a new little crochet project.
Crocheted Christmas Bauble
I've worked on different Christmas bauble ornaments, or Xmas balls the last few years. The first pattern is available below. Yeah!

Skills

The bauble is an intermediate/advanced project. If you are familiar with waistcoat stitches and slip stitches, the Christmas ball pattern is likely trouble-free and you can go straight to the yarn-hook suggestions and the pattern notes.

If the stitches - or this way of using them - are fairly new to you, a little extra effort might be required at first. I promise you, getting to know the stitches better is very well worth it.

Want more details about this way of working? Read: Tessa's Triangles - Hexagon Pattern

You should feel comfortable making uniform stitches of all kinds and it is also good to know how to adjust the tension of your work. - If not, read this one: How to Change and Control Your Tension

A Note about your Hook

A perfect hook for waistcoat stitches has a head that is slightly smaller than the neck and is pointy or has a lip/nose that makes it easy to insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Remember. We should always use the neck of the hook to determine the size of our stitches - and avoid tightening them after the loop leaves the hook. With waistcoat stitches, it is even more important or it will be difficult to make the following round.

Read about wellformed waistcoat stitches here: Waistcoat Stitch and Stitch Patterns in Rounds.

Yarn-Hook & Size

The bauble should be rather small to keep it light. A Catona-yarn-bauble like mine will be around 5cm (2") wide/tall.

I used:
  • Scheepjes Catona (Ravelry) 125m/50gr (138 yds/1.76oz)
  • hook size 4mm for the main parts and 3mm for the final round (US G6 and D3, UK 8 and 11).
However, any cotton yarn doable for amigurumi should work with this pattern. It could be cotton yarn with yardage 170m/50gr (186 yds/1.76oz) and hook size 3-3.5mm (US D3-E4, UK 10-9). For the final round use a slightly smaller hook for a nicer closing.

Crochet Christmas Balls

The Striped Bauble Pattern

The bauble is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral. (No joining with a slip stitch after each round).
Make not-tight stitches to make it easy to work with. Be thorough with the size of your chains. Adjust accordingly if needed, like when you change color.

Use a stitch marker or a long piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round.

Use 3-4 stitch markers or tiny stitch holders for the final round.

Special Stitches

Slip stitch BLO decrease (slst-blo-dec). Hook into back loops only (blo). Hook into the next two stitches in reverse order. Yarn-over and pull through all loops. For more info and a video, see Slip Stitch Tutorials - Part III.

Unfinished-ws. Insert the hook between the legs of a stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through one loop only. Keep the extra loop on the hook.

Waistcoat stitch decreases (cap version only). Insert the hook between the legs of the next stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, do the same for the next stitch so you have 3 loops on the hook, yarn-over and pull through all loops on the hook.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see below)
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)
slst-blo-c = slip stitch BLO with a color change
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round

Color changes are marked ‘-c’. Change color while pulling up the last loop of a stitch, so the new color is ready for the next stitch. For slip stitches, pick up the new color immediately.

Instructions

Foundation
With red yarn. Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]

1st Half of the Red Ball
  1. *1 ws in the first sc,1 ws-c in the same/current sc,
    ch-c 1 (change color to red immediately). *
    Repeat from * to * all the way. [18]

  2. Keep changing color so all ws appear red and all slst appear white.
    * With red. 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next stitch.
    With white; 1 slst-blo in the chain,
    1 slst-blo-c in the ws *.
    Repeat all the way. Start the repeats in the CURRENT ws. [24]

  3. This round you will have 3 white slst between the ws.
    * 1 ws in the current stitch,
    1 ws-c in the next stitch,
    1 slst-blo in each slst,
    1 slst-blo-c in the ws * [30]

  4. Repeat round 3. This round you will have 4 white slst. [36]

  5. Repeat round 3. This round you will have 5 white slst. [42]
Tighten the Magic Ring and weave in the yarn end from the beginning of the work. - Or - if you dare try if it will work for you, just tuck the loose end inside the bauble with or without a knot. - I mostly don't make a knot, mine are fine as long as they are only used for decoration purpose.

2nd Half of the Red Ball

  1. Begin this round in the ‘current ws’ and make the repeats from the ‘next ws’.
    * 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next ws,
    1 slst-blo in the next 4 slst,
    1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [42]

  2. Repeat the previous round. [42]
Prepare to fill the bauble. Depending on your tension, yarn, and more, the white part might arch inward. Use it if you like, or fill the bauble firmly in the end, if you want a very round ball.

  1. * 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next ws,
    1 slst-blo-dec,
    1 slst-blo in the next 2 slst,
    1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [36]

  2. * 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next ws,
    1 slst-blo-dec,
    1 slst-blo in the next slst,
    1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [30]

  3. * 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next ws,
    1 slst-blo-dec,
    1 slst-blo-c * [24]

  4. * 1 ws in the ws,
    1 ws-c in the next ws,
    1 slst-blo-dec-c in the slst. * [18]

  5. * 1 ws in each ws * (Skip all slst). [12]
If you don't want a cap, head directly to the Final Round (No Cap). Otherwise, prepare for the cap. Use the colored yarn.

  1. Make waistcoat stitch decreases all the way [6]
slst and cut the colored yarn, Pull the yarn end through the loop. Secure ends. A little knot using the white and colored yarn should be fine. Tug the loose ends into the bauble. Gaps between the last round of stitches should be closed after the next round.

The Cap

Use a smaller hook and golden yarn. Attach the yarn by inserting the hook between the legs of the last waistcoat stitch (as if doing a new waistcoat stitch), yarn-over, and pull through. This doesn’t count as a stitch. To hide the loose end of the golden yarn, crochet over it for the next rounds.

  1. Make 2 rounds of waistcoat stitches.

  2. Slip stitch into the next stitch, cut a long yarn end, and pull through the last loop.
    Tighten the last slst.
Create a loop for hanging the ornament
Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the next stitch and out in the middle of the cap.

While leaving most of the golden yarn to form a large loop, bring the needle back into the cap's center, and out at the bottom of the cap, then reinserting it right next to the initial point.
Tie a knot using the large loop and the short loose yarn end. Tuck the knot and the yarn end into the cap to hide it.

Change to a hook 1 size smaller.

Make 1 ws in the first stitch and unfinished-ws the rest of the way. Every time you have 4 loops (max) on the hook, move 3 loops to a stitch marker /stitch holder (or just a piece of string). The loop you made last, keep that on the hook.

Last round of the Christmas Ball

Cut a long yarn end. Pull the yarn end through all the loops on the hook and then all the loops on the stitch markers. Use a needle or a hook.

Insert a needle

Fill the bauble - firmly for a round ball.
Tighten the yarn end and use a needle to secure it by going around in the last loops once more.

Closing the Christmas Ball

Insert the needle into the ball and let it emerge from the middle of the 'star'.

Striped Christmas Bauble Crochet Pattern

Please let me know below, if you chose this cap-less solution. - Otherwise, I might eventually remove this part :)

You are all done!

Shape the Christmas bauble by hand if needed and have a lovely crochet Christmas!

...Psst!

Waistcoat stitches are not used much with traditional patterns but are very fun to work with.
If you liked this, try other projects using waistcoat and slip stitches. You find them under the theme Waistcoat Stitch Love.
Originally published in 2022, last updated in 2024.
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It is fall, Socktober, and the perfect time to make something warm and cozy.

Comfy Crochet Footies

These footies are soft, cushy, and easy to make. The stitch pattern is anti-knotted and stretchy. This offers a great fit, adapting comfortably to various foot shapes—something rarely achieved with crochet.

Plus, it's a toe-up pattern, and the foot and heel are crafted in one piece, minimizing seams and ensuring maximum comfort without irritation.

Crochet sock toe-up

Get the Pattern Now

The Comfy Footies pattern is available in English (US terms) and Danish.

Get it from your preferred pattern pusher; Ravelry, LoveCrafts, or right here via the StoneGnome Shop.

Size

The pattern supports shoe sizes EU 35-40 (US women 5-9, UK 3-7).

It was originally made for a female foot size EU 37/38 (US 6-7, UK 4-5). However, thanks to the flexible stitch pattern, the footies were easily adapted a couple of sizes up/down.

Yarn

What yarn to use? Bulky, fine, or super fine wool yarn (and blends) work great for this pattern. If you have a lighter yarn, simply hold 2-3 strands together to achieve a heavier weight. See more in the pattern.

Read more: Crochet with 3 strands

I made great tests with yarn like those below, though any yarn that works for you is allowed :) :

  • Ren Naturuld (bulky)
  • Asta and Lane Cervinia (2 strands)
  • Mayflower Andes (3 strands)
I'm short on images for all the footies, but I'll try to add some to Instagram soon.

Comfy Crochet Footies

Crochet footies size 35-40





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The waistcoat stitch is a brilliant two-faced thing. But be aware of the waistcoat stitch trap!

The knit stitch aka waistcoat stitch

To unlock the waistcoat stitch's full potential, it helps to know its secrets and understand the nuances of the waistcoat stitch.

Most crocheters call the waistcoat stitch dense and sturdy while a few of us love it for its drapiness and flexibility.

And why is that? Because there are at least TWO versions of the waistcoat stitch! They differ slightly in appearance and significantly more in structure and flexibility.

You should know about both versions, so you can choose which one to use for a project.

How to Work the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

The Basics

The stitch is created by inserting the hook between the legs of the next stitch.

And then there is a trap: There is a vertical bar at the back of the stitch*. It matters whether the hook is inserted before or after this vertical bar. Zoom in at the topmost image to see it.

*Note. Actually, there are two bars at the back. The main culprit is a very straight up-and-down (vertical) bar, while the other is slanted and sits on the side of the stitch. The slanted strand is positioned so far to the side that I doubt anyone considers using it today when working a 'normal' waistcoat stitch. If we count it, we have 3 versions of the stitch. I will disregard this 3rd version for now.

The Most Common Waistcoat Stitch version

Most crocheters naturally insert the hook AFTER the vertical bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this is at the left side of the back bar. This is the natural motion when you have the hook in one hand and push it into a stitch.

The waistcoat stitch, natural move of the hook

This gives you one version of the stitch. The denser one.

Currently, the tight version of this stitch is commonly demonstrated in tutorials for the waistcoat stitch. It is likely that most crocheters are not aware of the alternative option or do not consider it to be important.

The 'Secret' Waistcoat Stitch version

Another option is to insert the hook BEFORE the bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this means inserting the hook at the right side of the back bar.

This gives you another version of the stitch. A stitch with more drape.

Stitch Hacks

There are different approaches of how to insert the hook when working the last stitch version.

Method #1
Some crocheters elegantly twist their hook, angling it more directly into the stitch or even slightly backward, in the opposite direction. Some of my testers prefer this.
Olga Poltava recently uploaded a YouTube video demonstrating this way of entering a stitch.

Method #2
I prefer to use the lip/nose of my hook to guide the hook into the right place. If necessary, I can use my fingertip at the back of my work to keep the back bar clear of the hook

If you want to try the nose/lip first, then take a look here:



Tips for the Drapey version
  • Find a hook that works for you AND the stitch. Avoid a bulb-headed hook. It's challenging to insert a very blunt crochet hook into the center of a stitch.

    I prefer a tapered hook. However, I did have testers that worked fine with Susan Bate's inline hooks.

  • Crochet lose and control your tension. Once you have pulled up a loop lift your hook a little above the work to crochet looser. 
Read more: How to Change and Control Your Tension

And be patient. If you've never tried this version before, it's like learning a new stitch, so, it may take some time to become accustomed to.

What is the difference?

There are differences between the two versions.

Leaning and Dense

The dense version of the stitch captures more yarn, resulting in a structure where the strands are more entangled and closely packed together within each stitch. This tight interlocking of strands reduces flexibility.

As the denser stitch version grabs the back bar, it is pulled slightly to the side, causing the waistcoat stitches to lean. 

The leaning and dense waistcoat stitch

On the wrong side of the work, the stitches create a neatly structured yet slightly skewed pattern, with the stitches shifting. Being an organized chaos or a coordinated mess.

Straight and with Drape

The less dense version of the waistcoat stitch doesn't grasp the back bar. This allows the strands within each stitch to move more freely, resulting in greater flexibility in the work. Additionally, capturing less yarn means the fabric becomes slightly lighter, creating a thinner texture. With a looser structure, the fabric also gains more drape.

The less-dense waistcoat stitch version hardly leans at all. 

The straight and softer waistcoat stitch

On the wrong side, the stitches also line up beautifully inside each other.


The origin of the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

It is often impossible to determine the exact origin of a stitch, though in this case, we have an approximate idea.

In 2013 Oombawka wrote about the waistcoat stitch and found a book from 1915 (thank you for sharing, Rhondda). The book refers to the waistcoat stitch as 'the new chain stitch', so it is possible the stitch was a recent development when the book was written. 

I recently dug into the same book and was quite surprised to find BOTH versions of the waistcoat stitches in there. 

Understanding the instructions might be a bit difficult. I have highlighted the important parts showing the differences in the working methods of the two stitches. The pictures also provide a clue to distinguish between them.

The waistcoat stitch aka the new chain stitch

It looks to me like the New Chain Stitch is the drapey version of the waistcoat stitch. It looks like the stitches should line up on both sides of the work.

The German waistcoat stitch

The second waistcoat stitch version in the book is a slanted version. At the time it was called the German Waistcoat stitch.

Just to be fair. It is unclear whether the hook is inserted to the left of just one back bar or possibly to the left of both back bars, including the slanted one.
Source: The Sunlight book of knitting and crocheting p. 25-26.

Which Waistcoat Stitch Version to use?

If a pattern does not specify a certain stitch version, it's likely that the designer is only familiar with the 'German' waistcoat stitch version and designed the pattern accordingly.

Then you can choose what to use:
  • Opting for a small hook and the dense 'German' version of the stitch results in a tight, dense, and thick fabric. Cotton yarn emphasizes this. Great for sturdy things like a hat or maybe amigurumi. You also get a nice spiral look, that can be very decorative.
  • Choosing a large hook and using soft, flexible yarn to work the drapey version of the stitch results in a fabric that looks and works more like stitch-stretchy knitted stockinette. Smooth and soft. This fabric is ideal for wearables, blankets, and even softer types of amigurumi, although using a smaller hook may be preferable to keep the filling in place.
I suggest you choose what works better for a specific project and for the result you want to achieve.

Enjoy your next waistcoat stitch project :)

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The waistcoat stitch is a lovely little thing and you can make beautiful yet easy and fast-worked stitch patterns with it. Let me show you.

Waistcoat stitch and stitch pattern tutorial

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Crochet your own decorated eggs. Use a basic egg and change colors as you wish for nicely decorated eggs.

crochet Easter eggs

If you use waistcoat stitches for your egg you get different options. Like small, heart-shaped dots ♥ 

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The innovative crochet pattern is great as a winter project. Tricky Triangles is a mandala presenting a new way to crochet in the round.

Tricky Triangles Mandala Crochet Pattern

The mandala will be soft and drapey and excellent for making a pillow or you can make it a decorative table topper. There are a lot of other possibilities for hexagons if you google it.

The Mandala

I'm not sure if the level of it is beyond basics or advanced. It might more be a matter of preferences and whether you can find a hook that works for you.

It's colorwork and it requires you to make somewhat uniform stitches. The main stitches are slip stitches and waistcoat stitches. If you are not sure whether these stitches suit you or not, try the FREE introduction pattern Tessa's Triangles first.

Read more: Slip Stitch Tutorials.
Read more: Waistcoat stitches and Stitch Patterns in Rounds

Tricky Triangles comes with a 30% introductory discount. The discount is only available on Payhip or Ravelry and runs out in 2 weeks (Nov. 18th Copenhagen time). Use the coupon code TRICK to get the discount.

The mandala pattern is available in English (US terms) and Danish. 

Get the pattern at Ravelry, at LoveCrafts, or right here via my new Payhip Store.

Tricky Triangles

Yarn, Hook sizes, and Final Sizes

In theory, you can use any three yarn balls and a relatively large hook. Preferably a hook with a relatively small head. For the best result, the yarn should be uniform and soft, with a smooth look.

The yarn I have used is very soft and likable, so I can certainly recommend it.


Peppermint and Licorice
Hook size 5mm (H-8). It gets around 30cm (11.8") wide.
Crochet Mandala. Peppermint and Licorice Scheepjes Organicon/Bamboo Soft.
Organicon - 220 Broken Almond
Bamboo Soft – 263 Smokey Diamond (dark)
Bamboo Soft – 264 Antique Silver (grey)
(Big) Red.
Hook size 8mm (L-11). The red is approximately 37cm (14.5") wide.
Crochet Mandala. (Big) RedScheepjes Merino Soft.
645 Van Eyck (orange)
621 Picasso (red)
623 Rothko (dark red)

Yarn Packages

Littlebugz.dk made yarn packages for both versions. It might be of most relevance if you live in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway - or close. She is good at adding discounts on yarn packages for my patterns.

Have a look at the yarn packages at Littlebugz.

FYI. A lot of the yarn I use is sponsored by Littlebugz.dk. Littlebugz then makes yarn packages for my patterns. And in case you wonder. Littlebugz doesn't sponsor my opinion or anything other than the yarn 😊

Thank You

Thank you to all that have helped me out. Janelle did a great job before it was even a pattern. She helped me with terms and the structure of the written pattern. Then Anita Reinehr came in early to do a superb tech edit. Unusual yes, but with a new thing, it felt important to do a tech edit before having the pattern tested. 

Finally, a lot of people did testing. Some just partly, some only on the early Tessa's Triangles. Thank you to all of you too; Pamela Tan, Robyn Kaltea, Ruth Lister, Jess Wells, and more.

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A cute little hexagon made with unusual stitches.

Tessa’s Triangles - Hexagon crochet pattern

Make one little hexagon and you have a coaster. Make more hexagons and you can make a bag and with a little patience maybe even a blanket.

Introducing New Techniques

Tessa’s Triangles hexagon pattern is an introductory pattern. Learning how to work these stitches is the key to more advanced patterns. Another pattern is coming up soon at StoneGnome.com. You might also get ideas for making some on your own after making the hexagon. 

Tessa’s Triangles is a free pattern and is available in English and Danish.

Get the Pattern

Get the pattern now in StoneGnome’s new Payhip store*, on LoveCrochet, or add it to your library at Ravelry.

*Payhip will ask for your email, but that is only to make sure you get access to the pattern.

Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial. 
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.

Want the Newsletter? Find the orange button on this site and sign up for the newsletter.


Tricky Parts

There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.

Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time. 

Cheat tips to get you started.
  1. Make a one-colored sample to begin with.
  2. exchange the ws in rnd 1 with loose(!) sc*. (Make ws from rnd 2.)
  3. make chains instead of slip stitches.
* It will not give you a nice star in the middle.

Anita Reinehr did tech-edit on the pattern and suggested inserting a stitch marker between the legs of every stitch of the first round, to be able to find them. See her photo on Instagram.

Visual Learner?

To support the written pattern, a video is available. Some parts might be easier to do if you see how I do it.

Direct link to the video https://youtu.be/_uiaJC1xGgQ

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Share your hexagons. Tag me on Instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or Facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3 

Have fun with this.

Tricky Triangles Teaser
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Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.
I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?

I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.

The Color Pattern

I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.

Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart

Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.
Bernie Sanders mittens in green

Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens

This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.

Hook. Use a 5mm hook
Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).

- - -
Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.

Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.

From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).

Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.

Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.

The Thumb
Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.

Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.

The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.

Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.

Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).

Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).

Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.

Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.

Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).

Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.

Finalizing the Hand

Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.

Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.

Finalizing the Thumb
Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.

Would You like to Try?

Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.

Have fun :)
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Evie's FREE ear warmer pattern is ready.
Crochet a Flexible Ear Warmer
It doesn't take much yarn to make. Find the pattern at Ravelry or LoveCrafts now.

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Wet, cold, hot, sunny, cold, warm. When the weather is indecisive like this, we better be prepared. Here is a UNIQUE 3-piece pattern with hat, cowl, and fingerless gloves.

3 pieces. A UNIQUE set. Hat, cowl, fingerless gloves.

Did you try the free Evie's - Fingerless Gloves pattern yet? If not, it is still available for free. Try thee gloves and you might want the full set.

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Here is a fast little pattern for you. Light and airy fingerless gloves.


The drape is great and the gloves are stretchy with a thin, rolled cord-like edging.

This blog post is updated October 2020

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The Infinity Scarf is now available as a written pattern too.
StoneGnome Infinity Scarf

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This border is bold and flexible and can be used with all kinds of projects. It is also the 4th and final part of the StoneGnome Infinity Scarf.
Crochet a bold Flexible Border. Almost like an iCord.

I promised to show you the border today, but don't despair if you are still working on the flames stitch patterns.

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Learn how to expand the Little Flames pattern and add shadows.
StoneGnomes Crocheted Infinity Scarf

Last time we did the Little Flames. There are many other ways of doing patterns with waistcoat stitches and chains, though. So, let's try one.

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Today I’ll show you how to do the first cable-like stitch pattern.

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Happy Valentines! Let us do the first part of the StoneGnome Infinity Scarf. I have released the new video for the CAL.
StoneGnomes Crocheted Infinity Scarf - The Beginning

I'll recommend that you watch the full video at least once. There are several tips in there, you might need. Later, you can get back here and use the notes for a better overview.

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The introduction is now available on YouTube. :)

See the video or read about the scarf here.

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The scarf is lovely, isn't it? If you want one too, join me for a Crochet-Along (CAL).
StoneGnome Infinity Scarf Pattern

I've made the first video recordings of how to make my StoneGnome Infinity Scarf and I will have an introduction ready next Friday.

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Need something new for setting the table? Maybe something that isn't too formal, but still adds a touch of style.
crochet table runner made from Bamboo Soft

Try this new crochet pattern and make an elegant table runner.

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The pattern for the Dahlia Washcloths is ready! Bring the Summer into your home with these delicious washcloths.
Soft Crochet Washcloths

Make them of very soft cotton and you will have the softest washcloths ever.

You find the pattern at LoveCrafts, Ravelry and also at LittleBugz as part of a yarn package. It is available in English and Danish. (At LoveCrafts, find the Danish version here).

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