The waistcoat stitch is a lovely little thing and you can make beautiful yet easy and fast-worked stitch patterns with it.
Let me show you.
Learn to crochet the Tunisian top stitch - aka bump stitch. It is a VERY easy stitch and the stitch is also very fast to work with.
You crochet beautiful scarfs and more with this stitch.
If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.
If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.
If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.
Updated and split into two posts in September 2021. Originally from September 2016.
Tunisian Top Stitch
Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Make a foundation row of just about 10 chains - or cast on if you prefer that. Now you are ready for the first row of Tunisian Crochet Top Stitches.
Related posts:
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)
Forward Pass
You need to locate and hook into the 'bump' from the return passes. It's on top - and maybe a little behind - the vertical strings, we often use in Tunisian crochet. It is very similar to the back bumps of a chain row you use for a traditional foundation row.
Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.
If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.
Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.
If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.
1. Insert the hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. Yarn-over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. (img below)
2. *Insert the hook into a bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.*
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.
Return Pass
3. Left edge: Chain one (pull through one loop only).
4. *Yo and pull through two loops.*
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.
You are now done with the second row :) Make a couple more rows just for practice.
Finishing Off
You end it like you do on regular crochet. Cut the yarn end and pull it through the last loop on the hook - at the right side of your work.Tips
Tip 1. Leave extra long ends when you start and when you finish. Weaving the ends in and out takes more yarn than other stitches.
Tip 2. When you are doing a back motion, then stretch the work a little with your left hand. This gives your work a more uniform look.
Tip 3. In a return pass: When you need to pull yarn from the yarn ball, then hold on to the first loop with your index finger, so you don't accidentally pull the previous bump too tight.
Make a Scarf
Imagine a scarf made purely with the Tunisian Top Stitch. Great drape, right?!If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.
Have fun with it :)
We took a break the other day and went to the beach. I grabbed one of my older ideas on the way out and got this little beauty for you.
If you have ever considered working with the Tunisian Reverse Stitch, you might want to read along here.
Then a new stitch pops up and makes everyone excited.
Back-Linked Stitches
When doing 'ordinary' linked stitches, you get a visible link at the front of the stitch. Sometimes you don't want that. In that case, I've work out a method, where you use a bump on the back of a stitch to link into.
Back linked stitches. Almost invisible at the front.
See the back side below.
Notice. You can link double crochet (dc) and taller stitches (US terms), though you can also link a dc to a half double crochet stitch (hdc), if the hdc is made first.
Tutorial
Like linked stitches, back-linked stitches are also made by replacing the normal yarn-over (YO) with a link. In back-linked stitches you insert the hook into a bump on the back of the last stitch. Look at the back of a chain stitch. There is a bump there, we will use.Taller stitches usually start with 2 or more YO. Each of these YOs should be replaced with a insert-into-the-back-bump-yo-pull-up-loop.
Foundation. Make a row of 8 chains. Turn with 2 chains. Be careful NOT to tighten the last chain and the loop on the hook too much or you cannot insert the hook in the bump.
Note. The 2nd chain from the hook will be the 'footer' of this 2-chain turn stitch (for regular linked stitches the 3rd chain is the 'footer'.)
- Make the first back-linked stitch by turning your work, so you can see the back of your last chain. Find the first back bump close to the hook and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
- Skip one chain and insert the hook in the next stitch/chain as you would do with a normal dc. YO and pull up a loop.
- Finalize the dc as usual. *YO and pull through two loops.* Repeat this.
- The back-linked stitch is done. If you count the 2-chain-stitch, there are now 2 stitches in the row.
All the following stitches look alike. Turn your work a little, so you can see and find the back bump closest to the hook.
- Insert the hook in the back bump. YO and pull up a loop.
- Insert the hook it the top of the previous row or chain (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
- Finalize your stitch as usual. *YO, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook.
Turning
Turn with 2 chains. Do not tighten the last chain too much.The first linked stitch can be difficult, if you tighten your chains too much.- Find the back bump of your last chain and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
- Insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Finalize the stitch as usual with *YO and pull through two loops* twice. Repeat 5)-7) all across for a full row of linked stitches.
Two rows of back-linked stitches.
Video
I know some of you like a video. So I hope this is useful for you. Remember to click like, if you like it and I would also love if you subscribe to more on youtube.The Geeky Note
When I had worked with linked stitches for a short while, something hit me. If you have tried linked stitches with taller stitches and if you know Tunisian crochet by heart, maybe you have seen it too. To me, linked stitches are similar to short rows of Tunisian crochet stitches.Ordinary linked stitches are Tunisian simple stitches and the back-linked version is similar to the Tunisian top stitch - which btw, is one of my favorite Tunisian stitches due to its drape and how it can be used for a flexible rib.
What Name to Use?
So, maybe we could just call linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian simple stitch and the back-linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian top stitch?Well... my problem is that I need to add a disclaimer here. I believe some has argued that linked stitches are NOT Tunisian stitches. I don't see any difference, but now I'm not sure, if we should call them one thing or another - or if the purpose and way of thinking of them can justify two different names.
Funny world, right?
It is very useful, if you want to use a tall stitch for an amigurumi figure or just want another stitch in your stitch collection.
It's just not at all impossible. Nor do you need to cut the yarn and sew in ends all the time.
I'll show you, how you add more color to this stitch pattern row by row.
I also have a little workaround for you, that helps you close gaps in the left side of your work
I'm experimenting with mitered corners and have developed a way to do the left side increase without it being too tight and knotted.
We tend to forget that this stitch is very versatile and can be used for much more. It can give your work a dense - though soft and drapable - fabric, you can use it for decoration, and it can be used for a stretchy ribbing.
Have you figured out by now, what stitch I'm referring to?
Did you ever think about how many different crocheted ribbings there exist? I think most of us just do whatever a pattern tells us - or you find a page telling you 'how to crochet a ribbing'. As in one ribbing.
Being conscious about the different kinds of ribbing is an advantage, if you want to be able to change an existing pattern or make your own design.
The back of the Tunisian Top Stitch has similarities to a chain mail when using a large hook.
It is perfect for halloween or for any everyday childrens play.
The project is fast and it doesn't matter, if you make a little mistake here and there. So feel free to try even if you just learned to do the Tunisian Top Stitch.
This is a detailed guide. Grab your yarn, measure tape, a shirt of approximately the right size and your creativity.
You need
- scissors - for your yarn only, do NOT cut the sample shirt you found!
- needle for sewing in ends.
- yarn: acrylic is fine.
- yarn weight: DK (133m/50g or 145.5yds/1.76oz)
- I used: Torino from Lane Cervinia - 120g (4.2oz) for a size 3-4 year old.
- at least one size 10mm straight hook with a rubber band around the far end.
- OR - if possible - a Tunisian hook with hooks on both ends (or make your own).
Step 1 - Draw and Measure
Get the measurements from the shirt you want to copy. If you want to adjust anything, do it now.The top stitch is very flexible, so the sizes on my drawing makes the costume large enough to be worn on top of a jacket as well as on top of a regular shirt.
Use Google to convert the cm into inches if you like and if you want the exact same size as I.
I took one of my 3-year olds shirts and added a little length to make room for a side seam slit.
I also changed the neck to an easier one with a slit making plenty of room for my kid's huge head.
And finally I decided to make the arms straight and not too long, as I think this goes well with a chain mail.
Notice: The top stitch likes to stretch. So when you measure the work laying flat down, it should be 10% shorter, as it stretches when worn (due to gravity). Does that 10% explanation make sense to you? If it is supposed to be 40cm (15.75in) long, then make it 36cm (14.2in) when laying flat on a table.
My measurements on the drawing are those I used, when the costumes was laying flat on a table.
AND REMEMBER: We want The BACK of the top stitch. So the side you look at, when you crochet, will be the WRONG side of the final shirt.
Step 2 - Crochet the Front and Back
You can start from the top or the beginning. The top stitch will look the same.I started the shirt from the bottom. I regretted that, as my boy suddenly came by and wanted it to be knee length - and then changed his mind back, when he saw the result. So I had to frog the neck. It would have been easier to frog the part with the side seams. - Or at least to do a reality check on the way down there :)
Continue working in a spiral to make the back and then front at the same time: When you have the two rectangles, you start picking up loops on one of them and when you reach the end of the first one, continue on the other piece.
See ChiCrochets video for Tunisian Crochet in the Round.
Ignore that she changes colors. It just makes it easier for you to see, what she does.
If you work in a spiral, then remember to stop, when you get to the sleeve openings (make plenty of room here). My work measured 24cm (9.5in)here - laying flat. From here I crocheted in rows. Back and forward. Back side first and then the front side.
Neck
5cm (2in) from the measurement target, mark the center of the work for the neck slit. Stop crocheting, when you get to the slit and worked your way back again doing one side first. When done, cut the yarn and do the second part afterwards. This leaves a 5 cm slit in the middle.
Slip Stitch Shoulders Together
Now, stitch the back and the front together on top of the shoulders. You can use a regular slip stitch for that. Remember: You want the WRONG side to be visible. So put the front and back side together, so the wrong sides face each other. That way your slip stitches will be on the back of the costume.Step 3 - The Arms
Remember that the top Stitch likes to stretch lengthwise? Currently there should plenty of room for the armpits. Make sure to pick up stitches anywhere possible, so there keep being plenty of space in the armpit.
If you work back and forward in rows, then make the arm as a huge rectangle. The seam should be placed under the arm and will be slip stitched together.
No decreases.
When both arms are done, cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop on the hook. Hide the closing off, when you sew in ends. This shirt is for dressing up, not an everyday garment, so it doesn't matter if it looks a little rough.
Step 4 - Assembly
If you didn't work in a spiral, then you can crochet pieces together now with loose slip stitches. Remember that the BACK side of your work is the one we want to show, so put things together while you watch the front side of your work.Weave in Ends
Tadaa ! Chain Mail done!
Optional - Making Highlights
Put paint on a big brush and wipe the brush off, so there isn't too much paint. Don't put pressure on the brush while painting. Paint in the direction of top to bottom only. Highlights are supposed to look like sunlight and they only come from one direction.
You should rather add a little paint at a time and then do the maneuver several times, than give it too much from the beginning.
Put it on a hanger and let it dry.
