StoneGnome: basic

The waistcoat stitch is a brilliant two-faced thing. But be aware of the waistcoat stitch trap!

To unlock the waistcoat stitch's full potential, it helps to know its secrets and understand the nuances of the waistcoat stitch.

Most crocheters call the waistcoat stitch dense and sturdy while a few of us love it for its drapiness and flexibility.

And why is that? Because there are at least TWO versions of the waistcoat stitch! They differ slightly in appearance and significantly more in structure and flexibility.

You should know about both versions, so you can choose which one to use for a project.

How to Work the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

The Basics

The stitch is created by inserting the hook between the legs of the next stitch.

And then there is a trap: There is a vertical bar at the back of the stitch*. It matters whether the hook is inserted before or after this vertical bar. Zoom in at the topmost image to see it.

*Note. Actually, there are two bars at the back. The main culprit is a very straight up-and-down (vertical) bar, while the other is slanted and sits on the side of the stitch. The slanted strand is positioned so far to the side that I doubt anyone considers using it today when working a 'normal' waistcoat stitch. If we count it, we have 3 versions of the stitch. I will disregard this 3rd version for now.

The Most Common Waistcoat Stitch version

Most crocheters naturally insert the hook AFTER the vertical bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this is at the left side of the back bar. This is the natural motion when you have the hook in one hand and push it into a stitch.

The waistcoat stitch, natural move of the hook

This gives you one version of the stitch. The denser one.

Currently, the tight version of this stitch is commonly demonstrated in tutorials for the waistcoat stitch. It is likely that most crocheters are not aware of the alternative option or do not consider it to be important.

The 'Secret' Waistcoat Stitch version

Another option is to insert the hook BEFORE the bar at the back. For right-handed crocheters, this means inserting the hook at the right side of the back bar.

This gives you another version of the stitch. A stitch with more drape.

Stitch Hacks

There are different approaches of how to insert the hook when working the last stitch version.

Method #1

Some crocheters elegantly twist their hook, angling it more directly into the stitch or even slightly backward, in the opposite direction. Some of my testers prefer this.

Olga Poltava recently uploaded a YouTube video demonstrating this way of entering a stitch.

Method #2

I prefer to use the lip/nose of my hook to guide the hook into the right place. If necessary, I can use my fingertip at the back of my work to keep the back bar clear of the hook

If you want to try the nose/lip first, then take a look here:

Tips for the Drapey version

Find a hook that works for you AND the stitch. Avoid a bulb-headed hook. It's challenging to insert a very blunt crochet hook into the center of a stitch.

I prefer a tapered hook. However, I did have testers that worked fine with Susan Bate's inline hooks.
Crochet lose and control your tension. Once you have pulled up a loop lift your hook a little above the work to crochet looser.

And be patient. If you've never tried this version before, it's like learning a new stitch, so, it may take some time to become accustomed to.

What is the difference?

There are differences between the two versions.

Leaning and Dense

The dense version of the stitch captures more yarn, resulting in a structure where the strands are more entangled and closely packed together within each stitch. This tight interlocking of strands reduces flexibility.

As the denser stitch version grabs the back bar, it is pulled slightly to the side, causing the waistcoat stitches to lean.

On the wrong side of the work, the stitches create a neatly structured yet slightly skewed pattern, with the stitches shifting. Being an organized chaos or a coordinated mess.

Straight and with Drape

The less dense version of the waistcoat stitch doesn't grasp the back bar. This allows the strands within each stitch to move more freely, resulting in greater flexibility in the work. Additionally, capturing less yarn means the fabric becomes slightly lighter, creating a thinner texture. With a looser structure, the fabric also gains more drape.

The less-dense waistcoat stitch version hardly leans at all.

The straight and softer waistcoat stitch

On the wrong side, the stitches also line up beautifully inside each other.

The origin of the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

It is often impossible to determine the exact origin of a stitch, though in this case, we have an approximate idea.

In 2013 Oombawka wrote about the waistcoat stitch and found a book from 1915 (thank you for sharing, Rhondda). The book refers to the waistcoat stitch as 'the new chain stitch', so it is possible the stitch was a recent development when the book was written.

I recently dug into the same book and was quite surprised to find BOTH versions of the waistcoat stitches in there.

Understanding the instructions might be a bit difficult. I have highlighted the important parts showing the differences in the working methods of the two stitches. The pictures also provide a clue to distinguish between them.

The waistcoat stitch aka the new chain stitch

It looks to me like the New Chain Stitch is the drapey version of the waistcoat stitch. It looks like the stitches should line up on both sides of the work.

The second waistcoat stitch version in the book is a slanted version. At the time it was called the German Waistcoat stitch.

Just to be fair. It is unclear whether the hook is inserted to the left of just one back bar or possibly to the left of both back bars, including the slanted one.

Source: The Sunlight book of knitting and crocheting p. 25-26.

Which Waistcoat Stitch Version to use?

If a pattern does not specify a certain stitch version, it's likely that the designer is only familiar with the 'German' waistcoat stitch version and designed the pattern accordingly.

Then you can choose what to use:

Opting for a small hook and the dense 'German' version of the stitch results in a tight, dense, and thick fabric. Cotton yarn emphasizes this. Great for sturdy things like a hat or maybe amigurumi. You also get a nice spiral look, that can be very decorative.

Choosing a large hook and using soft, flexible yarn to work the drapey version of the stitch results in a fabric that looks and works more like stitch-stretchy knitted stockinette. Smooth and soft. This fabric is ideal for wearables, blankets, and even softer types of amigurumi, although using a smaller hook may be preferable to keep the filling in place.

I suggest you choose what works better for a specific project and for the result you want to achieve.

Enjoy your next waistcoat stitch project :)

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Tunisian Crochet is fun and can be very meditative. Here is how you make a traditional foundation row to get started.

If you are a newbie to Tunisian Crochet, try it!

Updated September 2021. Originally posted as part of the Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch from 2016.

Tunisian Crochet in General

Is this your first try on Tunisian Crochet? If so, you should know it is all about a forward motion/ forward pass and a back motion/return pass. On the forward pass, you pick up loops. On the return pass, you finalize each of the crochet stitches.

You also insert the hook a little different from regular crochet in most cases - as you have other options here - which makes the stitches look a bit different too.

However, the way you work each of the stitches is still crocheting.

The outcome of a Tunisian Crochet piece can be a lot more like knitting, which is great for the drape and thereby for making wearables, scarfs, and other soft crochet pieces.

Tunisian Foundation Row

Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Most hooks will easily have space for 10 stitches on the neck. Else, just make fewer chains in this tutorial.

1) Chain row

Make a slip stitch and insert the hook. Crochet 9 chains for a foundation. This will give you 10 stitches, as the loop on your hook is number 10.

Now turn your work sideways, so you can see all the bumps that might usually be on the back of your work. These are the loops you will insert the hook into.

Tunisian Crochet - hook into the back bumps

2) Forward Pass - pick up loops

Insert your hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. (Some skip the first bump and it CAN be difficult to hook into. So if it suits you better, do that.)

Yarn over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. They stay there during the forward motion.

Tunisian Crochet - make the first stitch

*Insert the hook into the next bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.* Repeat this till you have used all bumps. When you have reached the end, you have 10 loops on your hook.

3) Return Pass - complete each stitch

Chain one. (Yo and pull through one loop only). This is the left edge of your work.

*Yo and pull through two loops.* Repeat until you only have one loop left on the hook.

AVOID the temptation to pull tight, when there is only one loop left on the hook. You can tighten your work so much, that it is difficult to proceed from here with a nice result.

Tadaa!! Now you are ready for your next row :)

From here most people learn the Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss), the most commonly known stitch in the Tunisian Crochet world.

You could also try something nice and a bit different like the lovely Tunisian Top Stitch. It's one of my favorite stitches and it doesn't get enough attention in the crochet world.

You will find a tutorial right here: Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch

Did You Know?

Instead of starting with a chain row, it is also possible to do a cast-on. You can either do the Tunisian Single Hook cast on or the Tunisian Crochet Cast On. The last one requires two hooks but is really beautiful and very popular on this site.

Choose whatever works best for you with a specific Tunisian Crochet Project.

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Learn to crochet the Tunisian top stitch - aka bump stitch. It is a VERY easy stitch and the stitch is also very fast to work with. You crochet beautiful scarfs and more with this stitch.

If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.

Updated and split into two posts in September 2021. Originally from September 2016.

Tunisian Top Stitch

Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Make a foundation row of just about 10 chains - or cast on if you prefer that. Now you are ready for the first row of Tunisian Crochet Top Stitches.

Related posts:
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)

Forward Pass

You need to locate and hook into the 'bump' from the return passes. It's on top - and maybe a little behind - the vertical strings, we often use in Tunisian crochet. It is very similar to the back bumps of a chain row you use for a traditional foundation row.

Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.

If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.

1. Insert the hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. Yarn-over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. (img below)

2. *Insert the hook into a bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.*
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.

Return Pass

3. Left edge: Chain one (pull through one loop only).

4. *Yo and pull through two loops.*
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.

You are now done with the second row :) Make a couple more rows just for practice.

Finishing Off

You end it like you do on regular crochet. Cut the yarn end and pull it through the last loop on the hook - at the right side of your work.

Tips

Tip 1. Leave extra long ends when you start and when you finish. Weaving the ends in and out takes more yarn than other stitches.

Tip 2. When you are doing a back motion, then stretch the work a little with your left hand. This gives your work a more uniform look.

Tip 3. In a return pass: When you need to pull yarn from the yarn ball, then hold on to the first loop with your index finger, so you don't accidentally pull the previous bump too tight.

Make a Scarf

Imagine a scarf made purely with the Tunisian Top Stitch. Great drape, right?!
If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.

Have fun with it :)

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If you haven't met the cute Junior Egg already, let me introduce you now. He/she likes to sit in a nest of yarn - or hang from a twig or a tree. And the Junior Egg pattern is free!

Years ago, right before Easter, the kids and I played with paper and cardboard and we came up with an egg with legs because it was pretty easy to draw and cut out and glue.

We loved it! We thought the result was eggcellent. An egg with a lot of personality. So I thought. Why not make a crochet version?

Materials

Hook size 2-2.5mm (US 0-B1, UK 14-13)
Scissors
A long piece of scrap yarn to use a stitch marker
Filling

Yarn

Cotton yarn with yardage around 170m/50gr (186y/1.76oz)

A tiny bit of white and orange.

Spiral Note
The egg and leg are worked in a spiral. Working in a spiral means working in continuous rounds without ending each round with a slip stitch. Put your scrap yarn stitch marker in place, when a round is done, and continue with the next round immediately. The yarn stitch marker show what round you are working on.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase. Make two sc in the same stitch.
dec = decrease. Work 2 sc together.
() = repeat instructions between parentheses as many times as directed – OR throughout the round/row.
[] = the number of stitches in a round or row.

Junior Egg Pattern

Work in a spiral.

Begin with 5sc in a magic ring. Pull tight. [5]

Increase with 5 stitches in each round like this:

1 inc in each stitch all the way. [10]
(inc, 1 sc) 5 times. [15]
(sc, inc, sc) 5 times. [20]
(inc, 3 sc) 5 times. [25]
(2 sc, inc, 2 sc) 5 times. [30]
(inc, 5 sc) 5 times. [35]

Round 8-15. (8 rounds in total). Work straight up now – no increases. 1 sc in each stitch. [35]

For shaping the top of the egg, I recommend invisible decreases*: Insert the hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches right after each other (do not yarn-over in between). Yarn-over and pull through two loops. Yarn-over and pull through the last loop.

*Don't make invisible decreases if you plan to turn the backside out like I sometimes to do.

1 sc, (dec, 15 sc) 2 times. [33]
(9 sc, dec) 3 times. [30]
(4 sc, dec, 4 sc) 3 times. [27]
(7 sc, dec) 3 times. [24]
(3 sc, dec, 3 sc) 3 times. [21]

Add fill. Add more fill after the next couple of rounds.

(5 sc, dec) 3 times. [18]
(2 sc, dec, 2 sc) 3 times. [15]
(1 sc, dec) 5 times. [10]

Remove your marker. The closing off is not worked in full rounds.

Closing Off the Egg

Cut a long yarn end. Expand the loop on the hook and pull until the yarn end is out and the work secured.

Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the front loop of every stitch all the way around (9 stitches). Pull tight and the hole closes.

Only if needed, secure the yarn again, by weaving it in and out a couple of times.

Use the yarn end for hanging the egg on a twig.

Related blog post: The Easter Bunny Egg pattern

Bunny Egg & Junior Egg

Leg

Work in a spiral.

Foundation option #1: Ch 5. Slip stitch it into a ring. [5]
Foundation option #2: Magic Ring with 5 sc. [5]

1-6) Sc all the way for 6 rounds.

7) Toe: Ch 4.

8) Use the back bumps of the chains. Skip the first and slip stitch into the next three.

9) Slip stitch into the middle of the foot through front and backside.

10) - 11) Repeat line 7-8.
12) Slip stitch into the left side of the foot.

13) - 14) Repeat line 7-8.
15) Slip stitch into the side of the foot again.

Finishing Off

Cut a long yarn end and pull the yarn end through the slip stitch.

Pull the yarn through the leg, so both yarn ends are at the top of the leg. (Find the nearest ’hole’ to pull it through. Use a needle or your hook).

Make another leg.

Sew the legs on the egg. Place them somewhat on the same side. ’Fold’ the legs, with the toes pointing forward and the ’knees’ slightly bend.

Thank you to Sofiia Norah Rasmussen for helping me test this with short, short notice.

If you want ideas of how to make a colored version, then check what Margie did on Instagram and give her a little love.

Enjoy!

Note. The original blog post is from March 2017. The latest update is of March 2021.

Share and Selling Note
You are welcome to share or sell any products you make from my patterns. :)
Read more about copyright and selling here.

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To all the little stars in the world. Crochet a little star or two.

In a few weeks, it is December 1st. I'm not good at being ahead of the season, but this year my sweet kids started making little ornaments a while ago, so I joined them.

Making the star pattern was a bit frustrating at first. :) Sometimes making things very simple is difficult. I also wanted it to somehow match the Valentine's heart, which can be used as a Christmas decoration as well.

Read more: See more hearts at Stonegnome

I think they will look good together in a window or at the Christmas tree.

Below is the crocheted star pattern. Have fun ❤️

Star Pattern

While working on the pattern it can be difficult to see the star shape. The further you get, the better it should be, and once blocked and shaped, it should be just how you want it.

Little star: around 5cm wide (2")
Medium star: around 6cm wide (2.4").

hook size 2.25-2.5mm (US: B/1, UK 13)
cotton yarn. Yardage around 170m/50g (185y/1.76oz)
optional. A stitch marker.
glasses, if needed.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over

[ ] = instructions for the medium star

Foundation

Chain 30 [medium star, chain 40]. Join with a ss to make a ring.

Optional. Turn the work, so you can see the back bumps of your chains. Hook into the back bumps.

1) chain 3
2) 1 dc and 1 hdc in the base of the 3 chains
3) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Now make a cluster-decrease of two hdc with a skipped chain between. like this:

4) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
5) skip a chain
6) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
7) yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook

Continue with:

8) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Star point

Tip: when working a lot of stitches into a single chain, the chain right AFTER might get very tight. Avoid it being tight by inserting a stitch marker into it before you start the previous group of stitches.

9) (optional. Place a stitch marker in the second chain from the hook)
Make 5 stitches in the next chain (= the first chain from the hook): 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1dc, 1hdc

Continue with:

10) (optional. Remove the stitch marker)
1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Repeat from line 4 until you reach the last star point, which is already halfway done.

(The initial 3 chains you made in the beginning, are substituting the tr.)

11) In the base of the 3 chains make two more stitches: 1hdc, 1dc

Join with a ss, cut the yarn, and secure it by pulling it through the last loop on the hook. Sew in the yarn end from your foundation chain. Make it come out at the top of the star. Use the two yarn ends for hanging up the ornament.

Wash and block* it for a perfect shape and you've got a star!

Let me know if you find any typos in the pattern. ❤️

*Wash and block

I highly recommend blocking for the best final touch.

Handwash the star. Press out excess water by wrapping it in a towel. Place the star on a flat surface and pull the outer and inner star points till you are happy with the shape. Use water-safe needles and a foamboard or likewise if you prefer - I just do it freehand.

The star points can be pointed or more rounded. Let the star dry.

Make a Whole Family of Stars

You might have figured out by now how to make an even bigger star. Every time you add 10 more chains to the foundation row you go up one size. And the line with 1 hdc is also repeated once more (lines 3, 8, 10).

I tried and ended up with 4 different sizes of stars. After blocking and a little nursing, even the bigger one got very good.

I'm not sure how far you can go and keep the shape, but feel free to try :) Just be aware that the larger the star, the more wobbly it will be and you might need to use stiffener if it is to be hung up.

Tag me on Instagram @stonegnomedesign to show me your star(s).

Enjoy!

Sell & Share

You are welcome to sell/share any products you make from my patterns. For further information look at Copyright and Selling

Snowflakes

If you like crocheted Christmas ornaments, try the two snowflakes too - Snowflake 1 and Snowflake 2

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StoneGnome

Free Christmas Crochet Patterns

How to Work the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

The Basics

The Most Common Waistcoat Stitch version

The 'Secret' Waistcoat Stitch version

Stitch Hacks

What is the difference?

Leaning and Dense

Straight and with Drape

The origin of the Waistcoat Stitch(es)

Which Waistcoat Stitch Version to use?

Written Pattern

Pattern Chart

Tunisian Crochet in General

Tunisian Foundation Row

Did You Know?

Tunisian Top Stitch

Forward Pass

Return Pass

Finishing Off

Tips

Make a Scarf

Materials

Junior Egg Pattern

Leg

Enjoy!

Star Pattern

Make a Whole Family of Stars

Snowflakes

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