StoneGnome: freePattern

Waistcoat stitches in the round are fantastic for colorwork. They stack neatly, create a smooth, uniform fabric, and fill up space beautifully.

If you’d like to try it, I’ve put together a small chart along with a few helpful tips.

Waistcoat stitches worked in the round are great for projects like pillows, bags, cowls, beanies, and more.

For my sample, I added 8 stitches to a round, and then the colorwork happened to fit an old glass. So, now the glass can be upgraded into a fancy crochet hook holder. - And yes, the glass is very happy with its new look.

The Heart Chart

I created the heart chart using StitchFiddle. I've shared it, so you can view or copy the chart for easy editing. FYI. StitchFiddle offers a handy progress tracker to help you keep your lines straight.

If you prefer a paper version, click and print this image.

Never tried a Crochet Chart before?

If you're new to reading crochet charts, don't despair, it is easy to learn the basics: Each rectangle in the chart represents one stitch. Since this pattern is worked in the round, keep working in the same direction and do not turn your work. Read every round from right to left (if you are left-handed from left to right) and keep following the chart in the same direction as you crochet.

Just to let you know how easy it is, here is a written version of the beginning - BUT, please read additional notes further below before you do anything but a swatch:

Foundation. Chain 33 or more (I made 41).

Work 1 single crochet stitch into each chain. (I prefer turning the chain over to insert my hook into the back bumps.). This is line 1 on the chart.
Do not turn - instead, join into a ring by making a waistcoat stitch in the first stitch of your first line. Continue working in the round. As you follow the chart, work each stitch in the color shown for that rectangle.
Continue working in the round and remember to change color right before every colored rectangle - see color change tip at the bottom of the page.

Repeat line 3.

❤️ · ❤️ · ❤️

Tips n Tricks

To get the best out of the waistcoat stitch colorwork, these additional notes can be helpful.

Keep the Waistcoat Stitches Straight

Waistcoat stitches don’t have to lean a lot! For a cleaner look make waistcoat stitches the right way. Insert your hook right before the vertical bar at the back of the stitch. (If you’re right-handed, this means inserting the hook on the right side of the bar.) This utilizes softer stitches and fabric and the stitches will lean a lot less.

Tension & Sizing

In case size is important to you.

The chart is designed for a gauge of 20 stitches × 28 rows per 10×10 cm (4″×4″).
I used a 4mm hook (US: G6) and Scheepjes Organicon, a very soft cotton yarn.
The final size of my work will be around 10cm (4") wide and 8 cm (3.1") tall. - Remember I added 8 sts to the chart for a full round.

I crocheted quite tight, so you can likely achieve the same gauge with maybe a 3mm hook (US:~D3) and a looser tension.

The hearts should still look great even if your gauge isn’t exact, but if size matters, be sure to make a swatch first.

Tapestry or Not?

Decide whether you want to:

Carry and crochet over the unused yarn throughout as for tapestry crochet
or let the unused strands float on the back. If you want to keep them under control, either twist the strands or just crochet over the unused yarn at every 4-6 stitch

Note. In tapestry crochet using waistcoat stitches, it is easy to accidentally catch the carried yarn when pulling up a loop. Also, be aware that tapestry crochet makes the fabric slightly taller, as each row takes up more space.

Color Changes

Make smooth color transitions by changing color at the last yarn-over of the previous stitch - except when creating a single, isolated 'V' in the design. In that case, simply pull up the alternate color once, then continue with the main color.

Happy crocheting! ❤️

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It’s cold and dark outside. So, have a happy hour with tea, a blanket, and a new little crochet project.

I've worked on different Christmas bauble ornaments, or Xmas balls the last few years. The first pattern is available below. Yeah!

Skills

The bauble is an intermediate/advanced project. If you are familiar with waistcoat stitches and slip stitches, the Christmas ball pattern is likely trouble-free and you can go straight to the yarn-hook suggestions and the pattern notes.

If the stitches - or this way of using them - are fairly new to you, a little extra effort might be required at first. I promise you, getting to know the stitches better is very well worth it.

Want more details about this way of working? Read: Tessa's Triangles - Hexagon Pattern

You should feel comfortable making uniform stitches of all kinds and it is also good to know how to adjust the tension of your work. - If not, read this one: How to Change and Control Your Tension

A Note about your Hook

A perfect hook for waistcoat stitches has a head that is slightly smaller than the neck and is pointy or has a lip/nose that makes it easy to insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Remember. We should always use the neck of the hook to determine the size of our stitches - and avoid tightening them after the loop leaves the hook. With waistcoat stitches, it is even more important or it will be difficult to make the following round.

Read about wellformed waistcoat stitches here: Waistcoat Stitch and Stitch Patterns in Rounds.

Yarn-Hook & Size

The bauble should be rather small to keep it light. A Catona-yarn-bauble like mine will be around 5cm (2") wide/tall.

I used:

Scheepjes Catona (Ravelry) 125m/50gr (138 yds/1.76oz)
hook size 4mm for the main parts and 3mm for the final round (US G6 and D3, UK 8 and 11).

However, any cotton yarn doable for amigurumi should work with this pattern. It could be cotton yarn with yardage 170m/50gr (186 yds/1.76oz) and hook size 3-3.5mm (US D3-E4, UK 10-9). For the final round use a slightly smaller hook for a nicer closing.

The Striped Bauble Pattern

The bauble is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral. (No joining with a slip stitch after each round).

Make not-tight stitches to make it easy to work with. Be thorough with the size of your chains. Adjust accordingly if needed, like when you change color.

Use a stitch marker or a long piece of yarn to mark the beginning of a round.

Use 3-4 stitch markers or tiny stitch holders for the final round.

Special Stitches

Slip stitch BLO decrease (slst-blo-dec). Hook into back loops only (blo). Hook into the next two stitches in reverse order. Yarn-over and pull through all loops. For more info and a video, see Slip Stitch Tutorials - Part III.

Unfinished-ws. Insert the hook between the legs of a stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through one loop only. Keep the extra loop on the hook.

Waistcoat stitch decreases (cap version only). Insert the hook between the legs of the next stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, do the same for the next stitch so you have 3 loops on the hook, yarn-over and pull through all loops on the hook.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see below)
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)

slst-blo-c = slip stitch BLO with a color change
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round

Color changes are marked ‘-c’. Change color while pulling up the last loop of a stitch, so the new color is ready for the next stitch. For slip stitches, pick up the new color immediately.

Instructions

Foundation

With red yarn. Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]

1st Half of the Red Ball

*1 ws in the first sc,1 ws-c in the same/current sc,
ch-c 1 (change color to red immediately). *
Repeat from * to * all the way. [18]
Keep changing color so all ws appear red and all slst appear white.
* With red. 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next stitch.
With white; 1 slst-blo in the chain,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws *.
Repeat all the way. Start the repeats in the CURRENT ws. [24]
This round you will have 3 white slst between the ws.
* 1 ws in the current stitch,
1 ws-c in the next stitch,
1 slst-blo in each slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws * [30]
Repeat round 3. This round you will have 4 white slst. [36]
Repeat round 3. This round you will have 5 white slst. [42]

Tighten the Magic Ring and weave in the yarn end from the beginning of the work. - Or - if you dare try if it will work for you, just tuck the loose end inside the bauble with or without a knot. - I mostly don't make a knot, mine are fine as long as they are only used for decoration purpose.

2nd Half of the Red Ball

Begin this round in the ‘current ws’ and make the repeats from the ‘next ws’.
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo in the next 4 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [42]
Repeat the previous round. [42]

Prepare to fill the bauble. Depending on your tension, yarn, and more, the white part might arch inward. Use it if you like, or fill the bauble firmly in the end, if you want a very round ball.

* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next 2 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [36]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [30]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo-c * [24]
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec-c in the slst. * [18]
* 1 ws in each ws * (Skip all slst). [12]

If you don't want a cap, head directly to the Final Round (No Cap). Otherwise, prepare for the cap. Use the colored yarn.

Make waistcoat stitch decreases all the way [6]

slst and cut the colored yarn, Pull the yarn end through the loop. Secure ends. A little knot using the white and colored yarn should be fine. Tug the loose ends into the bauble. Gaps between the last round of stitches should be closed after the next round.

The Cap

Use a smaller hook and golden yarn. Attach the yarn by inserting the hook between the legs of the last waistcoat stitch (as if doing a new waistcoat stitch), yarn-over, and pull through. This doesn’t count as a stitch. To hide the loose end of the golden yarn, crochet over it for the next rounds.

Make 2 rounds of waistcoat stitches.
Slip stitch into the next stitch, cut a long yarn end, and pull through the last loop.
Tighten the last slst.

Create a loop for hanging the ornament
Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the next stitch and out in the middle of the cap.

While leaving most of the golden yarn to form a large loop, bring the needle back into the cap's center, and out at the bottom of the cap, then reinserting it right next to the initial point.
Tie a knot using the large loop and the short loose yarn end. Tuck the knot and the yarn end into the cap to hide it.

Final Round (No Cap)

Change to a hook 1 size smaller.

Make 1 ws in the first stitch and unfinished-ws the rest of the way. Every time you have 4 loops (max) on the hook, move 3 loops to a stitch marker /stitch holder (or just a piece of string). The loop you made last, keep that on the hook.

Cut a long yarn end. Pull the yarn end through all the loops on the hook and then all the loops on the stitch markers. Use a needle or a hook.

Fill the bauble - firmly for a round ball.

Tighten the yarn end and use a needle to secure it by going around in the last loops once more.

Insert the needle into the ball and let it emerge from the middle of the 'star'.

Striped Christmas Bauble Crochet Pattern

Please let me know below, if you chose this cap-less solution. - Otherwise, I might eventually remove this part :)

You are all done!

Shape the Christmas bauble by hand if needed and have a lovely crochet Christmas!

...Psst!

Waistcoat stitches are not used much with traditional patterns but are very fun to work with.

If you liked this, try other projects using waistcoat and slip stitches. You find them under the theme Waistcoat Stitch Love.

Originally published in 2022, last updated in 2024.

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Here is a nice little FREE spider web pattern.

Use it for a coaster or make more rounds and use it as a table topper. Once you get the pattern it is very simple and you decide how big you want it.

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

You can make it of any yarn you want and then a relatively large hook. Btw, I recommend a dark but NOT BLACK yarn, to begin with. It is VERY difficult to find the right places to insert the hook, when using black yarn and working with waistcoat stitches.

I’ve tried two combos that worked well for me:
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)

Wool yarn blend (orange) and cotton yarn (black). Both with yardage around 210m/50gr (230yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 4 mm (US G-6)

Cotton Yarn - Fingering

Cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage around 170m/50gr (186yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 5 mm (US H-8)

If you are making a coaster meant for warm chocolate, tea, or coffee, you should use pure cotton yarn.

Instructions

The spider web pattern is based upon Tessa’s Triangles (a hexagon pattern). You can find tips and secrets in Tessa’s Triangles that can be useful for the spider web as well.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet stitch
ss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around

A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Start with the web color (dark).

Foundation

6 loose sc in a magic ring. Add a stitch marker between the legs of each stitch if it helps you.

Join the round with an ss-blo in the first sc.
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.

Round 1)

*ws in the current sc (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *

Note. Work the final ss-blo into the first ws of the round.

Round 2)

*ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in every ss,

ss-blo in the next ws while changing color *

Round 3-4)
Repeat round 2

Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.

More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.

Final Two Rounds

Round 7)

Repeat round 2

Round 8)

ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),

* ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,

2 ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the second ws) *

Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.

Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.

Happy Halloween!

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A cute little hexagon made with unusual stitches.

Tessa’s Triangles - Hexagon crochet pattern

Make one little hexagon and you have a coaster. Make more hexagons and you can make a bag and with a little patience maybe even a blanket.

Introducing New Techniques

Tessa’s Triangles hexagon pattern is an introductory pattern. Learning how to work these stitches is the key to more advanced patterns. Another pattern is coming up soon at StoneGnome.com. You might also get ideas for making some on your own after making the hexagon.

Tessa’s Triangles is a free pattern and is available in English and Danish.

Get the Pattern

Get the pattern now in StoneGnome’s new Payhip store*, on LoveCrochet, or add it to your library at Ravelry.

*Payhip will ask for your email, but that is only to make sure you get access to the pattern.

Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial.
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.

Want the Newsletter? Find the orange button on this site and sign up for the newsletter.

Tricky Parts

There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.

Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time.

Cheat tips to get you started.

Make a one-colored sample to begin with.
exchange the ws in rnd 1 with loose(!) sc*. (Make ws from rnd 2.)
make chains instead of slip stitches.

* It will not give you a nice star in the middle.

Anita Reinehr did tech-edit on the pattern and suggested inserting a stitch marker between the legs of every stitch of the first round, to be able to find them. See her photo on Instagram.

Visual Learner?

To support the written pattern, a video is available. Some parts might be easier to do if you see how I do it.

Direct link to the video https://youtu.be/_uiaJC1xGgQ

Share your hexagons. Tag me on Instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or Facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3

Have fun with this.

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If you haven't met the cute Junior Egg already, let me introduce you now. He/she likes to sit in a nest of yarn - or hang from a twig or a tree. And the Junior Egg pattern is free!

Years ago, right before Easter, the kids and I played with paper and cardboard and we came up with an egg with legs because it was pretty easy to draw and cut out and glue.

We loved it! We thought the result was eggcellent. An egg with a lot of personality. So I thought. Why not make a crochet version?

Materials

Hook size 2-2.5mm (US 0-B1, UK 14-13)
Scissors
A long piece of scrap yarn to use a stitch marker
Filling

Yarn

Cotton yarn with yardage around 170m/50gr (186y/1.76oz)

A tiny bit of white and orange.

Spiral Note
The egg and leg are worked in a spiral. Working in a spiral means working in continuous rounds without ending each round with a slip stitch. Put your scrap yarn stitch marker in place, when a round is done, and continue with the next round immediately. The yarn stitch marker show what round you are working on.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase. Make two sc in the same stitch.
dec = decrease. Work 2 sc together.
() = repeat instructions between parentheses as many times as directed – OR throughout the round/row.
[] = the number of stitches in a round or row.

Junior Egg Pattern

Work in a spiral.

Begin with 5sc in a magic ring. Pull tight. [5]

Increase with 5 stitches in each round like this:

1 inc in each stitch all the way. [10]
(inc, 1 sc) 5 times. [15]
(sc, inc, sc) 5 times. [20]
(inc, 3 sc) 5 times. [25]
(2 sc, inc, 2 sc) 5 times. [30]
(inc, 5 sc) 5 times. [35]

Round 8-15. (8 rounds in total). Work straight up now – no increases. 1 sc in each stitch. [35]

For shaping the top of the egg, I recommend invisible decreases*: Insert the hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches right after each other (do not yarn-over in between). Yarn-over and pull through two loops. Yarn-over and pull through the last loop.

*Don't make invisible decreases if you plan to turn the backside out like I sometimes to do.

1 sc, (dec, 15 sc) 2 times. [33]
(9 sc, dec) 3 times. [30]
(4 sc, dec, 4 sc) 3 times. [27]
(7 sc, dec) 3 times. [24]
(3 sc, dec, 3 sc) 3 times. [21]

Add fill. Add more fill after the next couple of rounds.

(5 sc, dec) 3 times. [18]
(2 sc, dec, 2 sc) 3 times. [15]
(1 sc, dec) 5 times. [10]

Remove your marker. The closing off is not worked in full rounds.

Closing Off the Egg

Cut a long yarn end. Expand the loop on the hook and pull until the yarn end is out and the work secured.

Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the front loop of every stitch all the way around (9 stitches). Pull tight and the hole closes.

Only if needed, secure the yarn again, by weaving it in and out a couple of times.

Use the yarn end for hanging the egg on a twig.

Related blog post: The Easter Bunny Egg pattern

Bunny Egg & Junior Egg

Leg

Work in a spiral.

Foundation option #1: Ch 5. Slip stitch it into a ring. [5]
Foundation option #2: Magic Ring with 5 sc. [5]

1-6) Sc all the way for 6 rounds.

7) Toe: Ch 4.

8) Use the back bumps of the chains. Skip the first and slip stitch into the next three.

9) Slip stitch into the middle of the foot through front and backside.

10) - 11) Repeat line 7-8.
12) Slip stitch into the left side of the foot.

13) - 14) Repeat line 7-8.
15) Slip stitch into the side of the foot again.

Finishing Off

Cut a long yarn end and pull the yarn end through the slip stitch.

Pull the yarn through the leg, so both yarn ends are at the top of the leg. (Find the nearest ’hole’ to pull it through. Use a needle or your hook).

Make another leg.

Sew the legs on the egg. Place them somewhat on the same side. ’Fold’ the legs, with the toes pointing forward and the ’knees’ slightly bend.

Thank you to Sofiia Norah Rasmussen for helping me test this with short, short notice.

If you want ideas of how to make a colored version, then check what Margie did on Instagram and give her a little love.

Enjoy!

Note. The original blog post is from March 2017. The latest update is of March 2021.

Share and Selling Note
You are welcome to share or sell any products you make from my patterns. :)
Read more about copyright and selling here.

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StoneGnome

The Heart Chart

Never tried a Crochet Chart before?

Tips n Tricks

Keep the Waistcoat Stitches Straight

Tension & Sizing

Tapestry or Not?

Color Changes

Happy crocheting! ❤️

Free Christmas Crochet Patterns

Skills

A Note about your Hook

Yarn-Hook & Size

The Striped Bauble Pattern

Special Stitches

Abbreviations

Instructions

The Cap

Final Round (No Cap)

You are all done!

...Psst!

What to Choose

The Patterns

Written Pattern

Pattern Chart

Christmas Crochet Ideas

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

Instructions

Final Two Rounds

Introducing New Techniques

Get the Pattern

Tricky Parts

Visual Learner?

Share

Materials

Junior Egg Pattern

Leg

Enjoy!

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