The pattern is free for a while. See the details below.
Use it for decoration or as a bookmark.
This one doesn't need blocking, but it is still super cute and easy to do.
Don't you think a big and a smaller pillow looks good together? The bonus-pages for the Heart on Fire is ready now. This means the pattern now includes a smaller heart too.
Christmas gets closer every day. All full of love and (Xmas) hearts. Here is a free heart pattern for you.
I'll guide you at the beginning of the diagram as well as at the parts, when new things happen. So even if you are a newbie, you should be able to finalize this.
I'll guide you at the beginning of the diagram as well as at the parts, when new things happen. So even if you are a newbie, you should be able to finalize this.
December is calling for cozy crochet projects. I know, I'm looking forward to peace and quiet* and my crochet projects! I've found a few links for free projects you might want to try.
To all the little stars in the world. Crochet a little star or two.
Below is the crocheted star pattern. Have fun ❤️
In a few weeks, it is December 1st. I'm not good at being ahead of the season, but this year my sweet kids started making little ornaments a while ago, so I joined them.
Making the star pattern was a bit frustrating at first. :) Sometimes making things very simple is difficult. I also wanted it to somehow match the Valentine's heart, which can be used as a Christmas decoration as well.
Making the star pattern was a bit frustrating at first. :) Sometimes making things very simple is difficult. I also wanted it to somehow match the Valentine's heart, which can be used as a Christmas decoration as well.
Read more: See more hearts at Stonegnome
I think they will look good together in a window or at the Christmas tree.
Below is the crocheted star pattern. Have fun ❤️
Star Pattern
While working on the pattern it can be difficult to see the star shape. The further you get, the better it should be, and once blocked and shaped, it should be just how you want it.
Little star: around 5cm wide (2")
Medium star: around 6cm wide (2.4").
Medium star: around 6cm wide (2.4").
- hook size 2.25-2.5mm (US: B/1, UK 13)
- cotton yarn. Yardage around 170m/50g (185y/1.76oz)
- optional. A stitch marker.
- glasses, if needed.
Abbreviations (US terms)
ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over
[ ] = instructions for the medium star
Foundation
Chain 30 [medium star, chain 40]. Join with a ss to make a ring.
Optional. Turn the work, so you can see the back bumps of your chains. Hook into the back bumps.
1) chain 3
2) 1 dc and 1 hdc in the base of the 3 chains
3) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]
2) 1 dc and 1 hdc in the base of the 3 chains
3) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]
Now make a cluster-decrease of two hdc with a skipped chain between. like this:
4) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
5) skip a chain
6) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
7) yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook
5) skip a chain
6) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
7) yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook
Continue with:
8) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]
Star point
Tip: when working a lot of stitches into a single chain, the chain right AFTER might get very tight. Avoid it being tight by inserting a stitch marker into it before you start the previous group of stitches.
9) (optional. Place a stitch marker in the second chain from the hook)
Make 5 stitches in the next chain (= the first chain from the hook): 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1dc, 1hdc
Make 5 stitches in the next chain (= the first chain from the hook): 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1dc, 1hdc
Continue with:
10) (optional. Remove the stitch marker)
1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]
1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]
Repeat from line 4 until you reach the last star point, which is already halfway done.
(The initial 3 chains you made in the beginning, are substituting the tr.)
11) In the base of the 3 chains make two more stitches: 1hdc, 1dc
Join with a ss, cut the yarn, and secure it by pulling it through the last loop on the hook. Sew in the yarn end from your foundation chain. Make it come out at the top of the star. Use the two yarn ends for hanging up the ornament.
Wash and block* it for a perfect shape and you've got a star!
Let me know if you find any typos in the pattern. ❤️
*Wash and block
I highly recommend blocking for the best final touch.
Handwash the star. Press out excess water by wrapping it in a towel. Place the star on a flat surface and pull the outer and inner star points till you are happy with the shape. Use water-safe needles and a foamboard or likewise if you prefer - I just do it freehand.
The star points can be pointed or more rounded. Let the star dry.
Make a Whole Family of Stars
You might have figured out by now how to make an even bigger star. Every time you add 10 more chains to the foundation row you go up one size. And the line with 1 hdc is also repeated once more (lines 3, 8, 10).
I tried and ended up with 4 different sizes of stars. After blocking and a little nursing, even the bigger one got very good.
I'm not sure how far you can go and keep the shape, but feel free to try :) Just be aware that the larger the star, the more wobbly it will be and you might need to use stiffener if it is to be hung up.
Tag me on Instagram @stonegnomedesign to show me your star(s).
Enjoy!
Sell & Share
You are welcome to sell/share any products you make from my patterns. For further information look at Copyright and Selling
Snowflakes
Back-Linked Stitches
When doing 'ordinary' linked stitches, you get a visible link at the front of the stitch. Sometimes you don't want that. In that case, I've work out a method, where you use a bump on the back of a stitch to link into.
Back linked stitches. Almost invisible at the front.
See the back side below.
Notice. You can link double crochet (dc) and taller stitches (US terms), though you can also link a dc to a half double crochet stitch (hdc), if the hdc is made first.
Tutorial
Like linked stitches, back-linked stitches are also made by replacing the normal yarn-over (YO) with a link. In back-linked stitches you insert the hook into a bump on the back of the last stitch. Look at the back of a chain stitch. There is a bump there, we will use.Taller stitches usually start with 2 or more YO. Each of these YOs should be replaced with a insert-into-the-back-bump-yo-pull-up-loop.
Foundation. Make a row of 8 chains. Turn with 2 chains. Be careful NOT to tighten the last chain and the loop on the hook too much or you cannot insert the hook in the bump.
Note. The 2nd chain from the hook will be the 'footer' of this 2-chain turn stitch (for regular linked stitches the 3rd chain is the 'footer'.)
- Make the first back-linked stitch by turning your work, so you can see the back of your last chain. Find the first back bump close to the hook and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
- Skip one chain and insert the hook in the next stitch/chain as you would do with a normal dc. YO and pull up a loop.
- Finalize the dc as usual. *YO and pull through two loops.* Repeat this.
- The back-linked stitch is done. If you count the 2-chain-stitch, there are now 2 stitches in the row.
All the following stitches look alike. Turn your work a little, so you can see and find the back bump closest to the hook.
- Insert the hook in the back bump. YO and pull up a loop.
- Insert the hook it the top of the previous row or chain (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
- Finalize your stitch as usual. *YO, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook.
Turning
Turn with 2 chains. Do not tighten the last chain too much.The first linked stitch can be difficult, if you tighten your chains too much.- Find the back bump of your last chain and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
- Insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Finalize the stitch as usual with *YO and pull through two loops* twice. Repeat 5)-7) all across for a full row of linked stitches.
Two rows of back-linked stitches.
Video
I know some of you like a video. So I hope this is useful for you. Remember to click like, if you like it and I would also love if you subscribe to more on youtube.The Geeky Note
When I had worked with linked stitches for a short while, something hit me. If you have tried linked stitches with taller stitches and if you know Tunisian crochet by heart, maybe you have seen it too. To me, linked stitches are similar to short rows of Tunisian crochet stitches.Ordinary linked stitches are Tunisian simple stitches and the back-linked version is similar to the Tunisian top stitch - which btw, is one of my favorite Tunisian stitches due to its drape and how it can be used for a flexible rib.
What Name to Use?
So, maybe we could just call linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian simple stitch and the back-linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian top stitch?Well... my problem is that I need to add a disclaimer here. I believe some has argued that linked stitches are NOT Tunisian stitches. I don't see any difference, but now I'm not sure, if we should call them one thing or another - or if the purpose and way of thinking of them can justify two different names.
Funny world, right?
To celebrate the 1st anniversary of StoneGnome, the next pattern will be FREE for a couple of days. It should be released later this week. (Jfyi, it is not the heart shown here).
