StoneGnome: Search results for heart

Waistcoat stitches in the round are fantastic for colorwork. They stack neatly, create a smooth, uniform fabric, and fill up space beautifully.

If you’d like to try it, I’ve put together a small chart along with a few helpful tips.

Waistcoat stitches worked in the round are great for projects like pillows, bags, cowls, beanies, and more.

For my sample, I added 8 stitches to a round, and then the colorwork happened to fit an old glass. So, now the glass can be upgraded into a fancy crochet hook holder. - And yes, the glass is very happy with its new look.

The Heart Chart

I created the heart chart using StitchFiddle. I've shared it, so you can view or copy the chart for easy editing. FYI. StitchFiddle offers a handy progress tracker to help you keep your lines straight.

If you prefer a paper version, click and print this image.

Never tried a Crochet Chart before?

If you're new to reading crochet charts, don't despair, it is easy to learn the basics: Each rectangle in the chart represents one stitch. Since this pattern is worked in the round, keep working in the same direction and do not turn your work. Read every round from right to left (if you are left-handed from left to right) and keep following the chart in the same direction as you crochet.

Just to let you know how easy it is, here is a written version of the beginning - BUT, please read additional notes further below before you do anything but a swatch:

Foundation. Chain 33 or more (I made 41).

Work 1 single crochet stitch into each chain. (I prefer turning the chain over to insert my hook into the back bumps.). This is line 1 on the chart.
Do not turn - instead, join into a ring by making a waistcoat stitch in the first stitch of your first line. Continue working in the round. As you follow the chart, work each stitch in the color shown for that rectangle.
Continue working in the round and remember to change color right before every colored rectangle - see color change tip at the bottom of the page.

Repeat line 3.

❤️ · ❤️ · ❤️

Tips n Tricks

To get the best out of the waistcoat stitch colorwork, these additional notes can be helpful.

Keep the Waistcoat Stitches Straight

Waistcoat stitches don’t have to lean a lot! For a cleaner look make waistcoat stitches the right way. Insert your hook right before the vertical bar at the back of the stitch. (If you’re right-handed, this means inserting the hook on the right side of the bar.) This utilizes softer stitches and fabric and the stitches will lean a lot less.

Tension & Sizing

In case size is important to you.

The chart is designed for a gauge of 20 stitches × 28 rows per 10×10 cm (4″×4″).
I used a 4mm hook (US: G6) and Scheepjes Organicon, a very soft cotton yarn.
The final size of my work will be around 10cm (4") wide and 8 cm (3.1") tall. - Remember I added 8 sts to the chart for a full round.

I crocheted quite tight, so you can likely achieve the same gauge with maybe a 3mm hook (US:~D3) and a looser tension.

The hearts should still look great even if your gauge isn’t exact, but if size matters, be sure to make a swatch first.

Tapestry or Not?

Decide whether you want to:

Carry and crochet over the unused yarn throughout as for tapestry crochet
or let the unused strands float on the back. If you want to keep them under control, either twist the strands or just crochet over the unused yarn at every 4-6 stitch

Note. In tapestry crochet using waistcoat stitches, it is easy to accidentally catch the carried yarn when pulling up a loop. Also, be aware that tapestry crochet makes the fabric slightly taller, as each row takes up more space.

Color Changes

Make smooth color transitions by changing color at the last yarn-over of the previous stitch - except when creating a single, isolated 'V' in the design. In that case, simply pull up the alternate color once, then continue with the main color.

Happy crocheting! ❤️

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To all the little stars in the world. Crochet a little star or two.

In a few weeks, it is December 1st. I'm not good at being ahead of the season, but this year my sweet kids started making little ornaments a while ago, so I joined them.

Making the star pattern was a bit frustrating at first. :) Sometimes making things very simple is difficult. I also wanted it to somehow match the Valentine's heart, which can be used as a Christmas decoration as well.

Read more: See more hearts at Stonegnome

I think they will look good together in a window or at the Christmas tree.

Below is the crocheted star pattern. Have fun ❤️

Star Pattern

While working on the pattern it can be difficult to see the star shape. The further you get, the better it should be, and once blocked and shaped, it should be just how you want it.

Little star: around 5cm wide (2")
Medium star: around 6cm wide (2.4").

hook size 2.25-2.5mm (US: B/1, UK 13)
cotton yarn. Yardage around 170m/50g (185y/1.76oz)
optional. A stitch marker.
glasses, if needed.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over

[ ] = instructions for the medium star

Foundation

Chain 30 [medium star, chain 40]. Join with a ss to make a ring.

Optional. Turn the work, so you can see the back bumps of your chains. Hook into the back bumps.

1) chain 3
2) 1 dc and 1 hdc in the base of the 3 chains
3) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Now make a cluster-decrease of two hdc with a skipped chain between. like this:

4) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
5) skip a chain
6) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
7) yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook

Continue with:

8) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Star point

Tip: when working a lot of stitches into a single chain, the chain right AFTER might get very tight. Avoid it being tight by inserting a stitch marker into it before you start the previous group of stitches.

9) (optional. Place a stitch marker in the second chain from the hook)
Make 5 stitches in the next chain (= the first chain from the hook): 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1dc, 1hdc

Continue with:

10) (optional. Remove the stitch marker)
1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Repeat from line 4 until you reach the last star point, which is already halfway done.

(The initial 3 chains you made in the beginning, are substituting the tr.)

11) In the base of the 3 chains make two more stitches: 1hdc, 1dc

Join with a ss, cut the yarn, and secure it by pulling it through the last loop on the hook. Sew in the yarn end from your foundation chain. Make it come out at the top of the star. Use the two yarn ends for hanging up the ornament.

Wash and block* it for a perfect shape and you've got a star!

Let me know if you find any typos in the pattern. ❤️

*Wash and block

I highly recommend blocking for the best final touch.

Handwash the star. Press out excess water by wrapping it in a towel. Place the star on a flat surface and pull the outer and inner star points till you are happy with the shape. Use water-safe needles and a foamboard or likewise if you prefer - I just do it freehand.

The star points can be pointed or more rounded. Let the star dry.

Make a Whole Family of Stars

You might have figured out by now how to make an even bigger star. Every time you add 10 more chains to the foundation row you go up one size. And the line with 1 hdc is also repeated once more (lines 3, 8, 10).

I tried and ended up with 4 different sizes of stars. After blocking and a little nursing, even the bigger one got very good.

I'm not sure how far you can go and keep the shape, but feel free to try :) Just be aware that the larger the star, the more wobbly it will be and you might need to use stiffener if it is to be hung up.

Tag me on Instagram @stonegnomedesign to show me your star(s).

Enjoy!

Sell & Share

You are welcome to sell/share any products you make from my patterns. For further information look at Copyright and Selling