In my last blog post, I showed you how to link stitches. I also have a suggestion of how to do a back-linked stitch, which is much less visible.
Furthermore it gives you a fantastic texture and drape. This is truly useful for scarves and other things you wear.
Back-Linked Stitches
When doing 'ordinary' linked stitches, you get a visible link at the front of the stitch. Sometimes you don't want that. In that case, I've work out a method, where you use a bump on the back of a stitch to link into.
Back linked stitches. Almost invisible at the front.
See the back side below.
Notice. You can link double crochet (dc) and taller stitches (US terms), though you can also link a dc to a half double crochet stitch (hdc), if the hdc is made first.
Tutorial
Like linked stitches, back-linked stitches are also made by replacing the normal yarn-over (YO) with a link. In back-linked stitches you insert the hook into a bump on the back of the last stitch. Look at the back of a chain stitch. There is a bump there, we will use.
Taller stitches usually start with 2 or more YO. Each of these YOs should be replaced with a insert-into-the-back-bump-yo-pull-up-loop.
Foundation. Make a row of 8 chains. Turn with 2 chains. Be careful NOT to tighten the last chain and the loop on the hook too much or you cannot insert the hook in the bump.
Note. The 2nd chain from the hook will be the 'footer' of this 2-chain turn stitch (for regular linked stitches the 3rd chain is the 'footer'.)
Make the first back-linked stitch by turning your work, so you can see the back of your last chain. Find the first back bump close to the hook and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
Skip one chain and insert the hook in the next stitch/chain as you would do with a normal dc. YO and pull up a loop.
Finalize the dc as usual. *YO and pull through two loops.* Repeat this.
The back-linked stitch is done. If you count the 2-chain-stitch, there are now 2 stitches in the row.
All the following stitches look alike. Turn your work a little, so you can see and find the back bump closest to the hook.
Insert the hook in the back bump. YO and pull up a loop.
Insert the hook it the top of the previous row or chain (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Finalize your stitch as usual. *YO, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook.
Turning
Turn with 2 chains. Do not tighten the last chain too much.The first linked stitch can be difficult, if you tighten your chains too much.
Find the back bump of your last chain and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.
Insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.
Finalize the stitch as usual with *YO and pull through two loops* twice. Repeat 5)-7) all across for a full row of linked stitches.
Two rows of back-linked stitches.
Video
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The Geeky Note
When I had worked with linked stitches for a short while, something hit me. If you have tried linked stitches with taller stitches and if you know Tunisian crochet by heart, maybe you have seen it too. To me, linked stitches are similar to short rows of Tunisian crochet stitches.
Ordinary linked stitches are Tunisian simple stitches and the back-linked version is similar to the Tunisian top stitch - which btw, is one of my favorite Tunisian stitches due to its drape and how it can be used for a flexible rib.
What Name to Use?
So, maybe we could just call linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian simple stitch and the back-linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian top stitch?
Well... my problem is that I need to add a disclaimer here. I believe some has argued that linked stitches are NOT Tunisian stitches. I don't see any difference, but now I'm not sure, if we should call them one thing or another - or if the purpose and way of thinking of them can justify two different names.
Christmas gets closer every day. All full of love and (Xmas) hearts. Here is a free heart pattern for you.
I'll guide you at the beginning of the diagram as well as at the parts, when new things happen. So even if you are a newbie, you should be able to finalize this.
The Picky Pillow Pattern now includes TWO pillows in the exquisite Twisted Stitch pattern.
If you bought the pattern already, remember to get the updated version. If you haven't bought it yet, go get the pattern for the two beautiful pillows.
The Picky Pillow pattern is now available. The pillow is designed to support you when you crochet or knit - or just want to relax.
The Tunisian twisted stitch pattern is used and a full photo tutorial for this is included in the pattern, so all you have to know in advance, is the Tunisian simple stitch and how to do regular single crochet.
NOTICE
For a limited time only, the pattern is available at an INTRODUCTION PRICE.
...AND if you buy it now, then make sure you are logged in, as you should then automatically get access to updates. You might be happy about that later on... hint, hint.
Buy the Pattern
The pattern is available in English (US terms) from Ravelry and LoveCrafts. It is also available in Danish, where it is called 'Pernitten Pude'. Find the Danish version at LoveCrafts and Ravelry.
About the Pattern
As usual you get a pattern with lots of photos and guidance helping you out.
Cro-hook
The main part of the pillow is worked in rows back and forward. You will need a cro-hook / double-ended hook for this. With or without cable. This also means that the length of your cro-hook doesn't matter much, as you don't have to do a full forward pass before you start a return pass.
Inner Pillow
In the pattern I suggest using an inner pillow. This is optional as the stitches are tight enough to hold the filling in. Personally I think and inner pillow gives you a more expensive-looking pillow, and it will of course also help the pillow stay in shape. So instructions for making an inner pillow are included. And it is NOT difficult to make one.
Adjustable
The pattern also includes instructions for adjusting the pillow size any way you want. So it can fit any inner pillow you have already or whatever you decide you need.
Testers
It has been quite a journey to make this pattern. No less than three testers have helped me out and once again, I'm surprised how much testing can improve a pattern. Thank you to Marjolein, Ewa, and Karen!
Some Tunisian patterns are easy to do, when you work in rounds, while doing rows are considered impossible, or something that requires sewing in a lot of ends.
It's just not at all impossible. Nor do you need to cut the yarn and sew in ends all the time.
Here is a nice and easy-to-do Tunisian stitch pattern for you. It is one of my favorites and I rarely see other using it, which is a shame. Try it, you might love it too.
I also have a little workaround for you, that helps you close gaps in the left side of your work
Make a nice decoration for your bottle of water. Use it as nice touch or for more practical reasons.
Everybody brings a bottle of water at the fitness center or at a field trip. Some of the bottles look very much alike, and occasionally it can be difficult to find the right one.
Here is a pattern for a bottle decoration, that makes your bottle unique.
Say hello to another happy member of the baby toy family. The Smiley Cloud.
As a gift to everyone on the newsletter list and following on Facebook, The crochet pattern is FREE for a few days - but on Ravelry only! Use the coupon code FREECLOUD.
The Smiley Moon has actually existed for quite some time. Now it exists as a written pattern too. Find it at Ravelry or as a package with 3 amigurumi patterns at LoveCrafts.
Bymami has this exquisite pattern package with 5 different succulents. I wanted to try one with variegated yarn, and then I made a tuft of (sea)grass as well to create a sea theme. This might be a good way of spending leftover yarn.
Most of us use it frequently. Just a little here and there. Some consider it more of a technique than a stitch. But it IS a stitch.
We tend to forget that this stitch is very versatile and can be used for much more. It can give your work a dense - though soft and drapable - fabric, you can use it for decoration, and it can be used for a stretchy ribbing.
Have you figured out by now, what stitch I'm referring to?