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Here is a nice little FREE spider web pattern.

Use it for a coaster or make more rounds and use it as a table topper. Once you get the pattern it is very simple and you decide how big you want it.

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

You can make it of any yarn you want and then a relatively large hook. Btw, I recommend a dark but NOT BLACK yarn, to begin with. It is VERY difficult to find the right places to insert the hook, when using black yarn and working with waistcoat stitches.

I’ve tried two combos that worked well for me:
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)

Wool yarn blend (orange) and cotton yarn (black). Both with yardage around 210m/50gr (230yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 4 mm (US G-6)

Cotton Yarn - Fingering

Cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage around 170m/50gr (186yds/1.76oz)
Hook size 5 mm (US H-8)

If you are making a coaster meant for warm chocolate, tea, or coffee, you should use pure cotton yarn.

Instructions

The spider web pattern is based upon Tessa’s Triangles (a hexagon pattern). You can find tips and secrets in Tessa’s Triangles that can be useful for the spider web as well.

Abbreviations

sc = single crochet stitch
ss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around

A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Start with the web color (dark).

Foundation

6 loose sc in a magic ring. Add a stitch marker between the legs of each stitch if it helps you.

Join the round with an ss-blo in the first sc.
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.

Round 1)

*ws in the current sc (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *

Note. Work the final ss-blo into the first ws of the round.

Round 2)

*ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in every ss,

ss-blo in the next ws while changing color *

Round 3-4)
Repeat round 2

Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.

More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.

Final Two Rounds

Round 7)

Repeat round 2

Round 8)

ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),

* ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,

2 ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the second ws) *

Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.

Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.

Happy Halloween!

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A cute little hexagon made with unusual stitches.

Tessa’s Triangles - Hexagon crochet pattern

Make one little hexagon and you have a coaster. Make more hexagons and you can make a bag and with a little patience maybe even a blanket.

Introducing New Techniques

Tessa’s Triangles hexagon pattern is an introductory pattern. Learning how to work these stitches is the key to more advanced patterns. Another pattern is coming up soon at StoneGnome.com. You might also get ideas for making some on your own after making the hexagon.

Tessa’s Triangles is a free pattern and is available in English and Danish.

Get the Pattern

Get the pattern now in StoneGnome’s new Payhip store*, on LoveCrochet, or add it to your library at Ravelry.

*Payhip will ask for your email, but that is only to make sure you get access to the pattern.

Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial.
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.

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Tricky Parts

There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.

Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time.

Tip. Omit the color change in your first sample and make chains instead of slip stitches, if it helps you. Then you can concentrate on the waistcoat stitches.

I have another workaround for the first round in mind, but it will not give you the nice star in the middle, but it can get you started. The workaround will be available soon.

Follow me @Instagram. I might show these little workarounds there if it helps you.

Visual Learner?

To support the written pattern, a video is available. Some parts might be easier to do if you see how I do it.

Direct link to the video https://youtu.be/_uiaJC1xGgQ

Share your hexagons. Tag me on instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3

Have fun with this.

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Tunisian Crochet is fun and can be very meditative. Here is how you make a traditional foundation row to get started.

If you are a newbie to Tunisian Crochet, try it!

Updated September 2021. Originally posted as part of the Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch from 2016.

Tunisian Crochet in General

Is this your first try on Tunisian Crochet? If so, you should know it is all about a forward motion/ forward pass and a back motion/return pass. On the forward pass, you pick up loops. On the return pass, you finalize each of the crochet stitches.

You also insert the hook a little different from regular crochet in most cases - as you have other options here - which makes the stitches look a bit different too.

However, the way you work each of the stitches is still crocheting.

The outcome of a Tunisian Crochet piece can be a lot more like knitting, which is great for the drape and thereby for making wearables, scarfs, and other soft crochet pieces.

Tunisian Foundation Row

Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Most hooks will easily have space for 10 stitches on the neck. Else, just make fewer chains in this tutorial.

1) Chain row

Make a slip stitch and insert the hook. Crochet 9 chains for a foundation. This will give you 10 stitches, as the loop on your hook is number 10.

Now turn your work sideways, so you can see all the bumps that might usually be on the back of your work. These are the loops you will insert the hook into.

Tunisian Crochet - hook into the back bumps

2) Forward Pass - pick up loops

Insert your hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. (Some skip the first bump and it CAN be difficult to hook into. So if it suits you better, do that.)

Yarn over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. They stay there during the forward motion.

Tunisian Crochet - make the first stitch

*Insert the hook into the next bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.* Repeat this till you have used all bumps. When you have reached the end, you have 10 loops on your hook.

3) Return Pass - complete each stitch

Chain one. (Yo and pull through one loop only). This is the left edge of your work.

*Yo and pull through two loops.* Repeat until you only have one loop left on the hook.

AVOID the temptation to pull tight, when there is only one loop left on the hook. You can tighten your work so much, that it is difficult to proceed from here with a nice result.

Tadaa!! Now you are ready for your next row :)

From here most people learn the Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss), the most commonly known stitch in the Tunisian Crochet world.

You could also try something nice and a bit different like the lovely Tunisian Top Stitch. It's one of my favorite stitches and it doesn't get enough attention in the crochet world.

You will find a tutorial right here: Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch

Did You Know?

Instead of starting with a chain row, it is also possible to do a cast-on. You can either do the Tunisian Single Hook cast on or the Tunisian Crochet Cast On. The last one requires two hooks but is really beautiful and very popular on this site.

Choose whatever works best for you with a specific Tunisian Crochet Project.

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Learn to crochet the Tunisian top stitch - aka bump stitch. It is a VERY easy stitch and the stitch is also very fast to work with. You crochet beautiful scarfs and more with this stitch.

If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.

Updated and split into two posts in September 2021. Originally from September 2016.

Tunisian Top Stitch

Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Make a foundation row of just about 10 chains - or cast on if you prefer that. Now you are ready for the first row of Tunisian Crochet Top Stitches.

Related posts:
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)

Forward Pass

You need to locate and hook into the 'bump' from the return passes. It's on top - and maybe a little behind - the vertical strings, we often use in Tunisian crochet. It is very similar to the back bumps of a chain row you use for a traditional foundation row.

Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.

If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.

1. Insert the hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. Yarn-over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. (img below)

2. *Insert the hook into a bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.*
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.

Return Pass

3. Left edge: Chain one (pull through one loop only).

4. *Yo and pull through two loops.*
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.

You are now done with the second row :) Make a couple more rows just for practice.

Finishing Off

You end it like you do on regular crochet. Cut the yarn end and pull it through the last loop on the hook - at the right side of your work.

Tips

Tip 1. Leave extra long ends when you start and when you finish. Weaving the ends in and out takes more yarn than other stitches.

Tip 2. When you are doing a back motion, then stretch the work a little with your left hand. This gives your work a more uniform look.

Tip 3. In a return pass: When you need to pull yarn from the yarn ball, then hold on to the first loop with your index finger, so you don't accidentally pull the previous bump too tight.

Make a Scarf

Imagine a scarf made purely with the Tunisian Top Stitch. Great drape, right?!
If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.

Have fun with it :)

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If you haven't met the cute Junior Egg already, let me introduce you now. He/she likes to sit in a nest of yarn - or hang from a twig or a tree. And the Junior Egg pattern is free!

Years ago, right before Easter, the kids and I played with paper and cardboard and we came up with an egg with legs because it was pretty easy to draw and cut out and glue.

We loved it! We thought the result was eggcellent. An egg with a lot of personality. So I thought. Why not make a crochet version?

Materials

Hook size 2-2.5mm (US 0-B1, UK 14-13)
Scissors
A long piece of scrap yarn to use a stitch marker
Filling

Yarn

Cotton yarn with yardage around 170m/50gr (186y/1.76oz)

A tiny bit of white and orange.

Spiral Note
The egg and leg are worked in a spiral. Working in a spiral means working in continuous rounds without ending each round with a slip stitch. Put your scrap yarn stitch marker in place, when a round is done, and continue with the next round immediately. The yarn stitch marker show what round you are working on.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase. Make two sc in the same stitch.
dec = decrease. Work 2 sc together.
3dec = decrease by working 3 sc together.
() = repeat instructions between parentheses as many times as directed – OR throughout the round/row.
[] = the number of stitches in a round or row.

Junior Egg Pattern

Work in a spiral.

Begin with 5sc in a magic ring. Pull tight. [5]

Increase with 5 stitches in each round like this:

1 inc in each stitch all the way. [10]
(inc, 1 sc) 5 times. [15]
(sc, inc, sc) 5 times. [20]
(inc, 3 sc) 5 times. [25]
(2 sc, inc, 2 sc) 5 times. [30]
(inc, 5 sc) 5 times. [35]

Round 8-15. (8 rounds in total). Work straight up now – no increases. 1 sc in each stitch. [35]

For shaping the top of the egg, I recommend invisible decreases*: Insert the hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches right after each other (do not yarn-over in between). Yarn-over and pull through two loops. Yarn-over and pull through the last loop.

*Don't make invisible decreases if you plan to turn the backside out like I sometimes to do.

1 sc, (dec, 15 sc) 2 times. [33]
(9 sc, dec) 3 times. [30]
(4 sc, dec, 4 sc) 3 times. [27]
(7 sc, dec) 3 times. [24]
(3 sc, dec, 3 sc) 3 times. [21]

Add fill. Add more fill after the next couple of rounds.

(5 sc, dec) 3 times. [18]
(2 sc, dec, 2 sc) 3 times. [15]
(1 sc, dec) 5 times. [10]

Remove your marker. The closing off is not worked in full rounds.

Closing Off the Egg

Cut a long yarn end. Expand the loop on the hook and pull until the yarn end is out and the work secured.

Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the front loop of every stitch all the way around (9 stitches). Pull tight and the hole closes.

Only if needed, secure the yarn again, by weaving it in and out a couple of times.

Use the yarn end for hanging the egg on a twig.

Related blog post: The Easter Bunny Egg pattern

Bunny Egg & Junior Egg

Leg

Work in a spiral.

Foundation option #1: Ch 5. Slip stitch it into a ring. [5]
Foundation option #2: Magic Ring with 5 sc. [5]

1-6) Sc all the way for 6 rounds.

7) Toe: Ch 4.

8) Use the back bumps of the chains. Skip the first and slip stitch into the next three.

9) Slip stitch into the middle of the foot through front and backside.

10) - 11) Repeat line 7-8.
12) Slip stitch into the left side of the foot.

13) - 14) Repeat line 7-8.
15) Slip stitch into the side of the foot again.

Finishing Off

Cut a long yarn end and pull the yarn end through the slip stitch.

Pull the yarn through the leg, so both yarn ends are at the top of the leg. (Find the nearest ’hole’ to pull it through. Use a needle or your hook).

Make another leg.

Sew the legs on the egg. Place them somewhat on the same side. ’Fold’ the legs, with the toes pointing forward and the ’knees’ slightly bend.

Thank you to Sofiia Norah Rasmussen for helping me test this with short, short notice.

If you want ideas of how to make a colored version, then check what Margie did on Instagram and give her a little love.

Enjoy!

Note. The original blog post is from March 2017. The latest update is of March 2021.

Share and Selling Note
You are welcome to share or sell any products you make from my patterns. :)
Read more about copyright and selling here.

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Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.

I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?

I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.

The Color Pattern

I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.

Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart

Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.

Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens

This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.

Hook. Use a 5mm hook

Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).

- - -

Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.

Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.

From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).

Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.

Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.

The Thumb

Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.

Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.

The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.

Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.

Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).

Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).

Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.

Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.

Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).

Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.

Finalizing the Hand

Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.

Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.

Finalizing the Thumb

Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.

Would You like to Try?

Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.

Have fun :)

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StoneGnome

Yarn and Hook Suggestions

Instructions

Final Two Rounds

Introducing New Techniques

Get the Pattern

Tricky Parts

Visual Learner?

Share

Tunisian Crochet in General

Tunisian Foundation Row

Did You Know?

Tunisian Top Stitch

Forward Pass

Return Pass

Finishing Off

Tips

Make a Scarf

The Workaround

Stitch Height

When (Not) to Use the Workaround

Difficulty

Size and Yarn

Enjoy the pattern and Easter!

Materials

Junior Egg Pattern

Leg

Enjoy!

The Color Pattern

Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens

Finalizing the Hand

Would You like to Try?

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