The waistcoat stitch is a lovely little thing and you can make beautiful yet easy and fast-worked stitch patterns with it.
Let me show you.
Bunny Egg usually hangs out around Easter enjoying the company of Junior Egg.
Hence, the pattern for Bunny Egg has been updated and now includes Junior Egg. The two of them love that ♥
The 2-in-1 pattern is available at Ravelry, LoveCrafts or you can purchase it in the StoneGnome Payhip store. It's available in English and Danish.
If you want to try Junior Egg for FREE, then you'll find Junior right here.
Updated. This post has been updated as of March 2023
Skill level
The pattern is written for crocheters that are familiar with amigurumi. Difficulty level is intermediate/advanced. There are a few special stitches like BLO and Puff stitches. They are slightly modified, but - of course - explained.
Junior is the easiest one to make, while you might need a little peace, glasses and good light when you make the legs for Bunny Egg.
Size and Yarn
The Easter Egg will be around 6.5cm tall (2.6") if you work with the recommended hook size 2-2.5mm (US 0-B1 or steel 4, UK 14-13).Use regular cotton yarn for amigurumi.
It could be something like Scheepjes Cotton 8 or similar.
Colors could be:
- 502 white
- 710 grey
- 649 soft coral (or 715 nude).
- 639 Burned Orange.
I tried Scheepjes Organicon (Ravelry link), which was soft and lovely to work with. Even a bit thick and fluffy in the right way. Totally recommend this for a luxury project and if the egg is for decoration purposes only.
However, if you plan to use the Easter Egg as a toy, the yarn might get a little worn out faster than other yarn. At least that is what I experienced when I used it for samples and had to frog it several times.
More versions
Margie helped test and proofread the original patterns. Check out her latest colorful Junior Eggs from 2023 or her very, very cute Bunny Egg on Instagram.
Thank you Margie for being such a patient and positive tester and proofreader.
Thank you Margie for being such a patient and positive tester and proofreader.
Enjoy the pattern and Easter!
Related blog post: Junior Egg
Make an angel display for a crocheted necklace or a beaded crochet necklace. The display can be used for selling items at a market, if you attend an exhibition, or maybe for a special gift.
However, one of my necklaces comes with a tight bracelet. I wanted the necklace and the bracelet to be on the same display, which required the bottom of the template to be rather wide compared to the top of the template. Otherwise, the distance between the two would be too big.
Carefully fold it, so the back flaps overlap with about 1cm (0.4in), and glue the part that overlaps.
I've used heavy 190g A4 paper with a very smooth surface, so I sewed a couple of stitches on the back to make the necklaces and the bracelet stay in place. I've seen others cover the display with wallpaper or likewise and I'm guessing a rougher surface will prevent the necklaces from slipping.
I made the display in 2017 for an exhibition I was attending with other textile and yarn freaks; weavers, filters, knitters, and crocheters. I wanted to present my crocheted necklaces in a nice way.
UPDATE: Due to requests, this writing and the templates below have been updated in January 2023.
First, I found a template (and tutorial) at Georgia P Designs. There are cones for bracelets, a cone for a necklace, and a flat-back necklace display stand.
However, one of my necklaces comes with a tight bracelet. I wanted the necklace and the bracelet to be on the same display, which required the bottom of the template to be rather wide compared to the top of the template. Otherwise, the distance between the two would be too big.
After playing around for a little while, I ended up with a display shaped like angel wings.
The files are available from my google drive. You can get a full-size copy from the links.
The files are available from my google drive. You can get a full-size copy from the links.
Make the printed side the back of your cone. The print on the template files is rather pale, so it doesn't show through the paper.
If you can't print close to the edges, you can shrink it a bit (your printer dialog should help you with this) - OR you can ignore the missing print at the margins. It should be fairly easy to guess where to cut. Use the dotted line as a guide for the front tip.
If you can't print close to the edges, you can shrink it a bit (your printer dialog should help you with this) - OR you can ignore the missing print at the margins. It should be fairly easy to guess where to cut. Use the dotted line as a guide for the front tip.
Carefully fold it, so the back flaps overlap with about 1cm (0.4in), and glue the part that overlaps.
I've used heavy 190g A4 paper with a very smooth surface, so I sewed a couple of stitches on the back to make the necklaces and the bracelet stay in place. I've seen others cover the display with wallpaper or likewise and I'm guessing a rougher surface will prevent the necklaces from slipping.
The Exhibition
The keywords for the exhibition in 2017 were to show some of the many different things you can do with yarn and textiles. It used to be an annual recurring event in Gudhjem Museum (Denmark, Bornholm). The last years have been hard on exhibitions due to lockdowns and restrictions, but hopefully, there will be more yarn and textile exhibitions in the future.I enjoyed the beaded crochet work a lot, so I might also need the displays again one day.
Read more: Beaded Crochet Rope Necklace
Links to Display Ideas
Here are a couple of other display ideas and templates in case you need something special.- Georgia P. Designs templates and tutorial
- A Plywood Jewelry Pyramid tutorial can be found at Collectivegen.com (former 'A Pair & Spare'), which also posted templates for a couple of Wooden Jewellery Holders in May 2022.
- 3 other DIY Necklace displays are present at Tutorial De Artisana (eng: Craft Tutorial)
It’s cold and dark outside. So, have a happy hour with tea, a blanket, and a new little crochet project.
I've worked on Christmas bauble ornaments lately. The first pattern is now available below. Yeah!
Skills
The bauble is an intermediate/advanced project. If you are familiar with waistcoat stitches and slip stitches, the Christmas ball pattern is likely trouble-free and you can go straight to the yarn-hook suggestions and the pattern notes.
If the stitches - or the way they are used here - are fairly new to you, a little extra effort might be required to begin with. I promise you though, that getting to know the stitches better, is very well worth it.
Want more details about this way of working? Read: Tessa's Triangles - Hexagon Pattern
You should feel comfortable making uniform stitches of all kinds and it is also good to know how to adjust the tension of your work. - If not, read this one: How to Change and Control Your Tension
The Best Hook for Waistcoat Stitches
With waistcoat stitches, use a larger hook than usual for amigurumi and larger than the yarn label suggests.
A perfect hook has a head that is slightly smaller than the neck and is pointy or has a lip/nose that makes it easy to insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.
Read about wellformed waistcoat stitches here: Waistcoat Stitch and Stitch Patterns in Rounds.
Yarn-Hook Combos
I used:
- Scheepjes Catona (Ravelry) 125m/50gr (138 yds/1.76oz)
- hook size 4mm for the main parts plus a hook size 3mm for the final round (US G6 and D3, UK 8 and 11).
A Catona-bauble will then be almost 5cm (2") wide/tall.
Alternatively use regular cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage 170m/50gr (186 yds/1.76oz) and hook size 3-3.5mm (US D3-E4, UK 10-9). For the final round use a slightly smaller hook for a nicer closing.
The Red Striped Bauble
The bauble is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral. (No joining with a slip stitch after each round).
Make not-tight stitches to make it easy to work with. Be thorough with the size of your chains. Adjust accordingly if needed, like when you change color.
Use the neck of the hook to determine the size of your stitches - and avoid tightening them after the loop leaves the hook. Otherwise, it might be difficult to make the following round.
Use 3-4 stitch markers or tiny stitch holders for the final round - And it's also nice to have a stitch marker or a long piece of yarn for marking the beginning of a round too.
Color changes are marked ‘-c’. Change color while pulling up the last loop of a stitch, so the new color is ready for the next stitch. For slip stitches, pick up the new color immediately.
Special stitches
Slip stitch decrease. Hook into the next two stitches in reverse order. Yarn-over and pull through all loops. For more info and a video, see Slip Stitch Tutorials - Part III.
Unfinished-ws. Insert the hook between the legs of a stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop only. Keep the extra loop on the hook.
Abbreviations
ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see above)
slst/ slst-c = slip stitch / slip stitch with a color change
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) x4 = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see above)
slst/ slst-c = slip stitch / slip stitch with a color change
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) x4 = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round
Instructions
Start with red yarn.
Foundation
Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]
Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]
1st Half of the Red Ball
- * With red. 1 ws and 1 ws-c in the next sc,
ch-c 1 with the white (change color immediately). *
Repeat all the way. [18] - * With red. 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next stitch.
With white; 1 slst-blo in the chain,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws *.
Start the next repeats in the CURRENT ws. Repeat all the way [24]
(Keep changing color so all ws are done with red yarn and all slst are done in white.) - * 1 ws in the current stitch,
1 ws-c in the next stitch,
1 slst-blo in each slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the ws * [30]
- Repeat round 3. [36]
- Repeat round 3. [42]
Start filling the bauble. Depending on your tension, yarn, and more, the white part might arch inward. Use this if you like - or fill the bauble firmly in the end, if you want a very round ball.
2nd Half of the Red Ball
- Begin this round in the ‘current ws’ and make the repeats from the ‘next ws’.
* 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo in the next 4 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [42] - Repeat the previous round.
- * 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next 2 slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [36] - * 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo in the next slst,
1 slst-blo-c in the last slst * [30] - * 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec,
1 slst-blo-c * [24] - * 1 ws in the ws,
1 ws-c in the next ws,
1 slst-blo-dec-c in the slst. * [18] - * 1 ws in each ws * (Skip all slst). [12]
Final Round
Change to a hook 1 size smaller.
Change to a hook 1 size smaller.
Make 1 ws in the first stitch and unfinished-ws the rest of the way. Every time you have 4 loops (max) on the hook, move 3 loops to a stitch marker /stitch holder (or just a piece of string). The loop you made last, keep that on the hook.
Cut a long yarn end. Pull the yarn end through all the loops on the hook and then all the loops on the stitch markers. Use a needle or a hook.
Fill the bauble - firmly for a round ball.
Tighten the yarn end and use a needle to secure it by going around in the last loops once more.
Insert the needle into the ball and let it come out from the middle of the 'star'.
Shape the Christmas bauble by hand if needed.
Have a Merry Crochet Christmas!
...Psst!
If you liked this, then try other projects using waistcoat stitches and slip stitches. You can find them under the theme Split Crochet.
The stitches are not used much with traditional patterns but are really fun to work with.
The Tunisian Pumpkin pattern has been through a little update.
The pattern is updated with wings, a leaf, and two pumpkin variations. It adds a lot of possibilities for happy or scary or stylish Halloween decorations.
Get the pattern here
Read more and purchase the pattern on Ravelry, LoveCrochet, or the StoneGnome Store.
Or purchase the pattern right away here: Buy Now
Skills Needed
The pattern is a mix of regular and Tunisian crochet. If you don't know Tunisian crochet, don't worry. You will only need to learn a couple of basic Tunisian crochet stitches to make this, and it can be made with a regular crochet hook (with no handle).
All the minor details are basic regular crochet - with a little exception. To be able to make the wings mirrored, a few unusual stitches are added. They are not very difficult to do.
I've borrowed the technique from Tunisian crochet where they are called 'reverse stitches'. However, it is not the kind of reverse stitches we normally relate to, when we do regular crochet.
See a video and a little note about the reverse stitches here.
Happy Halloween!
Crochet your own decorated eggs. Use a basic egg
and change colors as you wish for nicely decorated eggs.
If you use waistcoat stitches for your egg you get different options. Like small, heart-shaped dots ♥
The innovative new crochet pattern has just been released. Tricky Triangles is a mandala presenting a new way to crochet in the round.
The mandala will be soft and drapey and excellent for making a pillow or you can make it a decorative table topper. There are a lot of other possibilities for hexagons if you google it.
The Mandala
I'm not sure if the level of it is beyond basics or advanced. It might more be a matter of preferences and whether you can find a hook that works for you.
It's colorwork and it requires you to make somewhat uniform stitches. The main stitches are slip stitches and waistcoat stitches. If you are not sure whether these stitches suit you or not, try the FREE introduction pattern Tessa's Triangles first.
Tricky Triangles comes with a 30% introductory discount. The discount is only available on Payhip or Ravelry and runs out in 2 weeks (Nov. 18th Copenhagen time). Use the coupon code TRICK to get the discount.
The mandala pattern is available in English (US terms) and Danish.
Get the pattern at Ravelry, at LoveCrafts, or right here via my new Payhip Store.
Yarn, Hook sizes, and Final Sizes
In theory, you can use any three yarn balls and a relatively large hook. Preferably a hook with a relatively small head. For the best result, the yarn should be uniform and soft, with a smooth look.
The yarn I have used is very soft and likable, so I can certainly recommend it.
Peppermint and Licorice
Hook size 5mm (H-8). It gets around 30cm (11.8") wide.
Scheepjes Organicon/Bamboo Soft.
Organicon - 220 Broken Almond
Bamboo Soft – 263 Smokey Diamond (dark)
Bamboo Soft – 264 Antique Silver (grey)
Hook size 5mm (H-8). It gets around 30cm (11.8") wide.

Organicon - 220 Broken Almond
Bamboo Soft – 263 Smokey Diamond (dark)
Bamboo Soft – 264 Antique Silver (grey)
(Big) Red.
Hook size 8mm (L-11). The red is approximately 37cm (14.5") wide.
Scheepjes Merino Soft.
645 Van Eyck (orange)
621 Picasso (red)
623 Rothko (dark red)
Hook size 8mm (L-11). The red is approximately 37cm (14.5") wide.

645 Van Eyck (orange)
621 Picasso (red)
623 Rothko (dark red)
Yarn Packages
Littlebugz.dk made yarn packages for both versions. It might be of most relevance if you live in Denmark, Sweden, and Norway - or close. She is good at adding discounts on yarn packages for my patterns.
Have a look at the yarn packages at Littlebugz.
FYI. A lot of the yarn I use is sponsored by Littlebugz.dk. Littlebugz then makes yarn packages for my patterns. And in case you wonder. Littlebugz doesn't sponsor my opinion or anything other than the yarn 😊
Thank You
Thank you to all that have helped me out. Janelle did a great job before it was even a pattern. She helped me with terms and the structure of the written pattern. Then Anita Reinehr came in early to do a superb tech edit. Unusual yes, but with a new thing, it felt important to do a tech edit before having the pattern tested.
Finally, a lot of people did testing. Some just partly, some only on the early Tessa's Triangles. Thank you to all of you too; Pamela Tan, Robyn Kaltea, Ruth Lister, Jess Wells, and more.
Here is a nice little FREE spider web pattern.
ss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around
A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.
Foundation
Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.
Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.
Use it for a coaster or make more rounds and use it as a table topper. Once you get the pattern it is very simple and you decide how big you want it.
Yarn and Hook Suggestions
You can make it of any yarn you want and then a relatively large hook. Btw, I recommend a dark but NOT BLACK yarn, to begin with. It is VERY difficult to find the right places to insert the hook, when using black yarn and working with waistcoat stitches.
I’ve tried two combos that worked well for me:
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)
Mixed Fingering Yarn (Semi-light)
- Wool yarn blend (orange) and cotton yarn (black). Both with yardage around 210m/50gr (230yds/1.76oz)
- Hook size 4 mm (US G-6)
Cotton Yarn - Fingering
- Cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage around 170m/50gr (186yds/1.76oz)
- Hook size 5 mm (US H-8)
If you are making a coaster meant for warm chocolate, tea, or coffee, you should use pure cotton yarn.
Instructions
The spider web pattern is based upon Tessa’s Triangles (a hexagon pattern). You can find tips and secrets in Tessa’s Triangles that can be useful for the spider web as well.
Abbreviations
sc = single crochet stitchss = slip stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
-blo = back loop only
** = repeat all the way around
A waistcoat stitch is a single crochet stitch, where you insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.
Start with the web color (dark).
Foundation
6 loose sc in a magic ring. Add a stitch marker between the legs of each stitch if it helps you.
Join the round with an ss-blo in the first sc.
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.
Round 1)
Note. This is a tricky part as the first sc can be pulled at so much, that you can’t find where to insert the hook when doing the ws. This is why I recommend attaching stitch markers right after making the magic ring.
Round 1)
*ws in the current sc (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *
ss-blo in the next sc while changing color again *
Note. Work the final ss-blo into the first ws of the round.
Round 2)
Round 2)
*ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color *
Round 3-4)
Repeat round 2
Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.
More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.
Repeat round 2
Round 5-6)
Repeat round 2, but without the color changes.
More Rounds
Work round 2-6 as many times as you want.
Final Two Rounds
Round 7)
Repeat round 2
Round 8)
ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the ws),
* ss-blo in every ss,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,
ss-blo in the next ws while changing color,
2 ws in the current ws (change color to orange while pulling up the last loop of the second ws) *
Note. Work 2 ws in the first stitch of the round too, but skip the color change.
Finish Off
Cut the yarn.
Expand the last loop till the yarn end is through.
Weave in the ends.
Happy Halloween!
Amigurumi and Tunisian Crochet arent’ something you very often think about as related. However, Tunisian crochet can be a very good choice for making nice and soft amigurumi.
I missed working with Tunisian crochet stitches. Then I got inspired by our creative kids (age 6 and 8) to make a pumpkin.
UPDATE. This pattern has been updated with extra items and features. Read more here.
The body of the pumpkin is made of Tunisian crochet stitches. The stem and the blossom end are regular crochet.
Yarn. I recommend the wool yarn blend Scheepjes Metropolis. It’s very very nice to work with and supports the softness of the Tunisian crochet stitches that makes the pumpkin nice to hold.
Size. The pumpkin will be around 7cm tall and wide (2.8”) with the suggested yarn here.
Currently, you can purchase the Pumpkin Pattern at Ravelry and at LoveCrafts.
- OR -
Find the pumpkin at my payhip store and get it for FREE when you use the coupon code PUMPKIN
(The coupon code expires November 1st 2021.)
Happy Halloween!
A cute little hexagon made with unusual stitches.
Make one little hexagon and you have a coaster. Make more hexagons and you can make a bag and with a little patience maybe even a blanket.
Introducing New Techniques
Tessa’s Triangles hexagon pattern is an introductory pattern. Learning how to work these stitches is the key to more advanced patterns. Another pattern is coming up soon at StoneGnome.com. You might also get ideas for making some on your own after making the hexagon.
Tessa’s Triangles is a free pattern and is available in English and Danish.
Get the Pattern
Get the pattern now in StoneGnome’s new Payhip store*, on LoveCrochet, or add it to your library at Ravelry.
*Payhip will ask for your email, but that is only to make sure you get access to the pattern.
Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial.
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.
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Tricky Parts
There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.
Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time.
Tip. Omit the color change in your first sample and make chains instead of slip stitches, if it helps you. Then you can concentrate on the waistcoat stitches.
I have another workaround for the first round in mind, but it will not give you the nice star in the middle, but it can get you started. The workaround will be available soon.
Follow me @Instagram. I might show these little workarounds there if it helps you.
Visual Learner?
To support the written pattern, a video is available. Some parts might be easier to do if you see how I do it.
Direct link to the video https://youtu.be/_uiaJC1xGgQ
Share
Share your hexagons. Tag me on instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3
Have fun with this.
Have you noticed Double Crochet Stitches (dc) tend to get skewed/slanted? Sometimes it's very visible and if you want to straighten them out, the solution is simple and easy to remember. It can be used for taller stitches too.
For me this mostly applies to open crochet projects, However, it does happen that I also use this technique in something like a granny square with lots of DCs next to each other. It just adds a little extra to the overall look.
When your double crochet (dc) stitches don't line up as beautiful as you want, the reason can be, that you have a very open pattern and/or very loose stitches. The loose work makes room for the foot of the stitches to move a little in the horizontal direction. Chevron patterns can make the imperfection even more visible.
Another Double Crochet Tip: Start a Row with a Fake Stitch
The Workaround
You avoid the messy look by inserting your hook differently. If you look closely at the top of a dc stitch, you can see the hole you would normally use. At the bottom right of the regular hole is a small loop. If you stitch through this loop, it will help the foot of your dc stay put on top of the previous dc.The slope only exists at the top of higher stitches, so don't look for it, when you are about to hook into a chain stitch.
Related article: Linked Stitches
Stitch Height
Your workaround stitches will be slightly shorter, than a regular dc. So don't change the way of stitching in the middle of a project. If you are about to start on a new project, then make sure to do your gauge swatch with the exact stitch you want to use.When (Not) to Use the Workaround
As said already, this little double crochet trick is mostly needed, when you work on something loose, open, and/or chevron. If you work on a project with a lot of dc stitches close to each other - or a tighter piece - chances are, the stitches fill in all holes beautifully.Only in a few tighter cases - like an outside-in granny square I recently played around with - it makes sense. Here, the hole pattern relies a lot on stitches being placed upon each other. Hence I used the dc workaround and got really nice stitches.
Btw. the granny square idea shown here, was presented to me by Tuula Maaria @instagram. See her youtube video, if you want to try one too :)
Note. The original post was made in July 2017. The latest update is from May 2021.
Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.
From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).
Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.
Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.
I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?
I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.
I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.
The Color Pattern
I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.
Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart
Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.
Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens
This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.
Hook. Use a 5mm hook
Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).
- - -
Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.
Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.
From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).
Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.
Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.
The Thumb
Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.
Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.
Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).
Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).
Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.
Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.
The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.
Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.
Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.
Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).
Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).
Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.
Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.
Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).
Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.
Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.
Finalizing the Hand
Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.
Finalizing the Thumb
Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.
Would You like to Try?
Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.
Have fun :)
Let us end the year by being kind to ourselves and each other. I have a FREE little heart-shaped crochet love for you.
Hang it on the Christmas tree, as decor for a present or just make one if you need a break during the holidays.
Evie's FREE ear warmer pattern is ready.
It doesn't take much yarn to make. Find the pattern at Ravelry or LoveCrafts now.
Wet, cold, hot, sunny, cold, warm. When the weather is indecisive like this, we better be prepared. Here is a UNIQUE 3-piece pattern with hat, cowl, and fingerless gloves.
Did you try the free Evie's - Fingerless Gloves pattern yet? If not, it is still available for free. Try thee gloves and you might want the full set.
Here is a fast little pattern for you. Light and airy fingerless gloves.
The drape is great and the gloves are stretchy with a thin, rolled cord-like edging.
This blog post is updated October 2020
This border is bold and flexible and can be used with all kinds of projects. It is also the 4th and final part of the StoneGnome Infinity Scarf.
I promised to show you the border today, but don't despair if you are still working on the flames stitch patterns.
I promised to show you the border today, but don't despair if you are still working on the flames stitch patterns.
Learn how to expand the Little Flames pattern and add shadows.
Last time we did the Little Flames. There are many other ways of doing patterns with waistcoat stitches and chains, though. So, let's try one.
Last time we did the Little Flames. There are many other ways of doing patterns with waistcoat stitches and chains, though. So, let's try one.