NOTICE

For a limited time only, the pattern is available at an INTRODUCTION PRICE.

...AND if you buy it now, then make sure you are logged in, as you should then automatically get access to updates. You might be happy about that later on... hint, hint.

The world changes and so does a few things here.

It's your last chance of getting Evie's gloves pattern for free. Find the gloves at Ravelry or LoveCrafts.

The reason is, an ear warmer is about to join Evie's Eternities accessory set. This will be the new freebie of the set.

Wet, cold, hot, sunny, cold, warm. When the weather is indecisive like this, we better be prepared. Here is a UNIQUE 3-piece pattern with hat, cowl, and fingerless gloves.

Did you try the free Evie's - Fingerless Gloves pattern yet? If not, it is still available for free. Try thee gloves and you might want the full set.

Read more: Slip Stitch Tutorials.
Read more: Waistcoat stitches and Stitch Patterns in Rounds

FYI. A lot of the yarn I use is sponsored by Littlebugz.dk. Littlebugz then makes yarn packages for my patterns. And in case you wonder. Littlebugz doesn't sponsor my opinion or anything other than the yarn 😊

I missed working with Tunisian crochet stitches. Then I got inspired by our creative kids (age 6 and 8) to make a pumpkin.

UPDATE. This pattern has been updated with extra items and features. Read more here.

The body of the pumpkin is made of Tunisian crochet stitches. The stem and the blossom end are regular crochet.

Yarn. I recommend the wool yarn blend Scheepjes Metropolis. It’s very very nice to work with and supports the softness of the Tunisian crochet stitches that makes the pumpkin nice to hold.

Size. The pumpkin will be around 7cm tall and wide (2.8”) with the suggested yarn here.

Currently, you can purchase the Pumpkin Pattern at Ravelry and at LoveCrafts.

- OR -

Find the pumpkin at my payhip store and get it for FREE when you use the coupon code PUMPKIN

(The coupon code expires November 1st 2021.)

It’s cold and dark outside. So, have a happy hour with tea, a blanket, and a new little crochet project.

I've worked on Christmas bauble ornaments lately. The first pattern is now available below. Yeah!

The bauble is an intermediate/advanced project. If you are familiar with waistcoat stitches and slip stitches, the Christmas ball pattern is likely trouble-free and you can go straight to the yarn-hook suggestions and the pattern notes.

If the stitches - or the way they are used here - are fairly new to you, a little extra effort might be required to begin with. I promise you though, that getting to know the stitches better, is very well worth it.

Want more details about this way of working? Read: Tessa's Triangles - Hexagon Pattern

You should feel comfortable making uniform stitches of all kinds and it is also good to know how to adjust the tension of your work. - If not, read this one: How to Change and Control Your Tension

With waistcoat stitches, use a larger hook than usual for amigurumi and larger than the yarn label suggests.

A perfect hook has a head that is slightly smaller than the neck and is pointy or has a lip/nose that makes it easy to insert the hook between the legs of the previous stitch.

Read about wellformed waistcoat stitches here: Waistcoat Stitch and Stitch Patterns in Rounds.

I used:

A Catona-bauble will then be almost 5cm (2") wide/tall.

Alternatively use regular cotton yarn for amigurumi with yardage 170m/50gr (186 yds/1.76oz) and hook size 3-3.5mm (US D3-E4, UK 10-9). For the final round use a slightly smaller hook for a nicer closing.

The bauble is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral. (No joining with a slip stitch after each round).

Make not-tight stitches to make it easy to work with. Be thorough with the size of your chains. Adjust accordingly if needed, like when you change color.

Use the neck of the hook to determine the size of your stitches - and avoid tightening them after the loop leaves the hook. Otherwise, it might be difficult to make the following round.

Use 3-4 stitch markers or tiny stitch holders for the final round - And it's also nice to have a stitch marker or a long piece of yarn for marking the beginning of a round too.

Color changes are marked ‘-c’. Change color while pulling up the last loop of a stitch, so the new color is ready for the next stitch. For slip stitches, pick up the new color immediately.

Slip stitch decrease. Hook into the next two stitches in reverse order. Yarn-over and pull through all loops. For more info and a video, see Slip Stitch Tutorials - Part III.

Unfinished-ws. Insert the hook between the legs of a stitch, yarn-over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through one loop only. Keep the extra loop on the hook.

ch = chain
sc = single crochet stitch
ws = waistcoat stitch
ws-c = Ws with a color change (see above)
slst/ slst-c = slip stitch / slip stitch with a color change
slst-blo = slip stitch in the Back Loop Only (blo)
slst-blo-dec = slip stitch decrease - in the back loop only
* * = Repeat instructions within * * all the way round
( ) x4 = Repeat instructions within the parentheses as many times as instructed.
[ ] = number of stitches in the round

Start with red yarn.

Foundation
Make 6 loose sc in a Magic Ring. Pull the Magic Ring loosely together. [6]

Start filling the bauble. Depending on your tension, yarn, and more, the white part might arch inward. Use this if you like - or fill the bauble firmly in the end, if you want a very round ball.

Use the heart to remind you of what is important in your life and what makes you happy. ❤ 

Written Pattern

Pattern Chart

Pattern update: The hook conversion in the written pattern should be hook size 5mm = US H-8, as stated in the video tutorial. 
If you are happy with using US I-9, then please keep using that.

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There ARE tricky parts in Tessa’s Triangles. Finding the right spot to insert the hook, when making waistcoat stitches in a round is probably new to pretty much all crocheters. It took me a while to figure out too.

Round 1 is tricky. So much is going on at the same time. Work slowly and take your time. 

Tip. Omit the color change in your first sample and make chains instead of slip stitches, if it helps you. Then you can concentrate on the waistcoat stitches.

I have another workaround for the first round in mind, but it will not give you the nice star in the middle, but it can get you started. The workaround will be available soon.  

Follow me @Instagram. I might show these little workarounds there if it helps you.

Share your hexagons. Tag me on instagram (with @stonegnomedesign) or facebook (with @stonegnome), so I can see how far you get. Feel free to also tag me, if you run into trouble. Then I’ll do my best to help you out. <3 

Have fun with this.

The back of the Tunisian Top Stitch has similarities to a chain mail when using a large hook.

It is perfect for halloween or for any everyday childrens play.

The project is fast and it doesn't matter, if you make a little mistake here and there. So feel free to try even if you just learned to do the Tunisian Top Stitch.

You need

• scissors - for your yarn only, do NOT cut the sample shirt you found!
• needle for sewing in ends.
• yarn: acrylic is fine. 
• yarn weight: DK (133m/50g or 145.5yds/1.76oz)
• I used: Torino from Lane Cervinia - 120g (4.2oz) for a size 3-4 year old.
• at least one size 10mm straight hook with a rubber band around the far end.
• OR - if possible - a Tunisian hook with hooks on both ends (or make your own).

Step 1 - Draw and Measure

Get the measurements from the shirt you want to copy. If you want to adjust anything, do it now.

The top stitch is very flexible, so the sizes on my drawing makes the costume large enough to be worn on top of a jacket as well as on top of a regular shirt.


Use Google to convert the cm into inches if you like and if you want the exact same size as I.

I took one of my 3-year olds shirts and added a little length to make room for a side seam slit.
I also changed the neck to an easier one with a slit making plenty of room for my kid's huge head.
And finally I decided to make the arms straight and not too long, as I think this goes well with a chain mail.

Notice: The top stitch likes to stretch. So when you measure the work laying flat down, it should be 10% shorter, as it stretches when worn (due to gravity). Does that 10% explanation make sense to you? If it is supposed to be 40cm (15.75in) long, then make it 36cm (14.2in) when laying flat on a table.
My measurements on the drawing are those I used, when the costumes was laying flat on a table.

AND REMEMBER: We want The BACK of the top stitch. So the side you look at, when you crochet, will be the WRONG side of the final shirt.

Step 2 - Crochet the Front and Back

You can start from the top or the beginning. The top stitch will look the same.

I started the shirt from the bottom. I regretted that, as my boy suddenly came by and wanted it to be knee length - and then changed his mind back, when he saw the result. So I had to frog the neck. It would have been easier to frog the part with the side seams. - Or at least to do a reality check on the way down there :)

Anyway - This is how you start from the bottom. Make the side seam parts. Two rectangular pieces of 6x38 cm.

Continue working in a spiral to make the back and then front at the same time: When you have the two rectangles, you start picking up loops on one of them and when you reach the end of the first one, continue on the other piece.

See ChiCrochets video for Tunisian Crochet in the Round.
Ignore that she changes colors. It just makes it easier for you to see, what she does.

If you don't want to do Tunisian in the rounds (or you only have one regular hook), you can make the front and the back separately and then slip stitch them together later.

If you work in a spiral, then remember to stop, when you get to the sleeve openings (make plenty of room here). My work measured 24cm (9.5in)here - laying flat. From here I crocheted in rows. Back and forward. Back side first and then the front side.

Neck

On the front side, I wanted a slit in the neck. Skip this part if you don't want it.

5cm (2in) from the measurement target, mark the center of the work for the neck slit. Stop crocheting, when you get to the slit and worked your way back again doing one side first. When done, cut the yarn and do the second part afterwards. This leaves a 5 cm slit in the middle.

Slip Stitch Shoulders Together

Now, stitch the back and the front together on top of the shoulders. You can use a regular slip stitch for that. Remember: You want the WRONG side to be visible. So put the front and back side together, so the wrong sides face each other. That way your slip stitches will be on the back of the costume.

Step 3 - The Arms

Remember that the top Stitch likes to stretch lengthwise? Currently there should plenty of room for the armpits. Make sure to pick up stitches anywhere possible, so there keep being plenty of space in the armpit.

Pick up stitches for the sleeves everywhere where your arms should be. Then crochet spiral-wise (or back and forward) all the way to the hand.

If you work back and forward in rows, then make the arm as a huge rectangle. The seam should be placed under the arm and will be slip stitched together.

No decreases.

When both arms are done, cut the yarn and pull it through the last loop on the hook. Hide the closing off, when you sew in ends. This shirt is for dressing up, not an everyday garment, so it doesn't matter if it looks a little rough.

Step 4 - Assembly

If you didn't work in a spiral, then you can crochet pieces together now with loose slip stitches. Remember that the BACK side of your work is the one we want to show, so put things together while you watch the front side of your work.

Weave in Ends

Loose yarn ends should be woven in. First in one direction for at least 5cm (2inch). Then lock it by turning the needle in the other direction and sew the thread into itself. This will prevent the yarn from getting loose.


Tadaa ! Chain Mail done!

Optional - Making Highlights

If you want highlights on the shirt, you can use acrylic paint. It will stiffen the yarn, but nothing serious. Just make sure you don't add too much on the shirt. It will not look good and probably crack and fall off.

Put paint on a big brush and wipe the brush off, so there isn't too much paint. Don't put pressure on the brush while painting. Paint in the direction of top to bottom only. Highlights are supposed to look like sunlight and they only come from one direction.

You should rather add a little paint at a time and then do the maneuver several times, than give it too much from the beginning.

Put it on a hanger and let it dry.

Washing

This costume should be hand washed only. The stitches are quite loose and if something catches a few threads, you will be sorry for the time spent to fix it. Also, if you have painted the costume, the paint might come off and mess with the other clothes in your machine - or the filters.