StoneGnome

This border is bold and flexible and can be used with all kinds of projects. It is also the 4th and final part of the StoneGnome Infinity Scarf.

I promised to show you the border today, but don't despair if you are still working on the flames stitch patterns.

Learn how to expand the Little Flames pattern and add shadows.

Last time we did the Little Flames. There are many other ways of doing patterns with waistcoat stitches and chains, though. So, let's try one.

Today I’ll show you how to do the first cable-like stitch pattern.

Happy Valentines! Let us do the first part of the StoneGnome Infinity Scarf. I have released the new video for the CAL.

I'll recommend that you watch the full video at least once. There are several tips in there, you might need. Later, you can get back here and use the notes for a better overview.

The introduction is now available on YouTube. :)

See the video or read about the scarf here.

I see a lot of questions these days about how to get circles like Rozeta* - but also squares - to lay flat and avoid the wonky look.

There are more things you can do to avoid wavy edges.

The waistcoat stitch is a lovely little thingy and you can make beautiful yet easy and fast worked stitch patterns with this. Let me show you.

Here is a new stitch pattern. The Double Honeycomb Mesh pattern. Use it for a triangular summer shawl or for a scarf.

We took a break the other day and went to the beach. I grabbed one of my older ideas on the way out and got this little beauty for you.

You really don't need that little knot in the beginning of your next crochet project. Here is a video showing how to avoid it.

It works with regular crochet as well as Tunisian and it doesn't matter how you like to hook into your starting chain.

Crochet a heart for Mother's Day.


This one doesn't need blocking, but it is still super cute and easy to do.

Sometimes it is difficult to join or sew two pieces together and make it look good.


If you have ever considered working with the Tunisian Reverse Stitch, you might want to read along here.

Working with 3 strands at once is fast and gives you a different and softer look than a bulkier yarn does - and you might save yarn too.


See here how to do it without getting into a big mess and get some tips about yarn usage, hook size etc.

Most guides about crochet and tension talks about how tight you hold the yarn with your non-dominant hand. This is only half the story, though.


What you do with the right hand (dominant hand) and what you do with your hook, is also important.

We love new stitches. And being an experienced crocheter, you might sometimes think, you have seen it all.


Then a new stitch pops up and makes everyone excited.

What if you want to cast on for your Tunisian project and only have one hook?


Here is a way to do that. And this technique might be even easier than the two-hooks casting on.

I have always admired, when knitters did a cast on and 1-2-3 got thousands of loops on their hooks... eh, needles.


You can also cast on, when doing Tunisian crochet - as in without a starting chain. And it is much faster than doing chains first.

Fluffy yarn, fuzzy yarn, fur yarn or eyelash yarn. All of these long-fibered yarn types aren't always easy to crochet with. But, they look so fluffy and soft and kitten-like...


Here are a couple of tips for you, so you are prepared next time you find a fluffy or furry yarn.

In my last blog post, I showed you how to link stitches. I also have a suggestion of how to do a back-linked stitch, which is much less visible.

Furthermore it gives you a fantastic texture and drape. This is truly useful for scarves and other things you wear.

Back-Linked Stitches

When doing 'ordinary' linked stitches, you get a visible link at the front of the stitch. Sometimes you don't want that. In that case, I've work out a method, where you use a bump on the back of a stitch to link into.


Notice. You can link double crochet (dc) and taller stitches (US terms), though you can also link a dc to a half double crochet stitch (hdc), if the hdc is made first.

Tutorial

Like linked stitches, back-linked stitches are also made by replacing the normal yarn-over (YO) with a link. In back-linked stitches you insert the hook into a bump on the back of the last stitch. Look at the back of a chain stitch. There is a bump there, we will use.

Taller stitches usually start with 2 or more YO. Each of these YOs should be replaced with a insert-into-the-back-bump-yo-pull-up-loop.

Foundation. Make a row of 8 chains. Turn with 2 chains. Be careful NOT to tighten the last chain and the loop on the hook too much or you cannot insert the hook in the bump.

Note. The 2nd chain from the hook will be the 'footer' of this 2-chain turn stitch (for regular linked stitches the 3rd chain is the 'footer'.)

1. Make the first back-linked stitch by turning your work, so you can see the back of your last chain. Find the first back bump close to the hook and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.

2. Skip one chain and insert the hook in the next stitch/chain as you would do with a normal dc. YO and pull up a loop.

3. Finalize the dc as usual. *YO and pull through two loops.* Repeat this.

4. The back-linked stitch is done. If you count the 2-chain-stitch, there are now 2 stitches in the row.

All the following stitches look alike. Turn your work a little, so you can see and find the back bump closest to the hook.

5. Insert the hook in the back bump. YO and pull up a loop.

6. Insert the hook it the top of the previous row or chain (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.

7. Finalize your stitch as usual. *YO, pull through two loops* until there is only one loop left on the hook.

Turning

Turn with 2 chains. Do not tighten the last chain too much.The first linked stitch can be difficult, if you tighten your chains too much.

1. Find the back bump of your last chain and insert the hook here. YO and pull up a loop.

2. Insert your hook into the next stitch of the previous row (as usual). YO and pull up a loop.

Finalize the stitch as usual with *YO and pull through two loops* twice. Repeat 5)-7) all across for a full row of linked stitches.

Video

I know some of you like a video. So I hope this is useful for you. Remember to click like, if you like it and I would also love if you subscribe to more on youtube.

The Geeky Note

When I had worked with linked stitches for a short while, something hit me. If you have tried linked stitches with taller stitches and if you know Tunisian crochet by heart, maybe you have seen it too. To me, linked stitches are similar to short rows of Tunisian crochet stitches.

Ordinary linked stitches are Tunisian simple stitches and the back-linked version is similar to the Tunisian top stitch - which btw, is one of my favorite Tunisian stitches due to its drape and how it can be used for a flexible rib.

What Name to Use?

So, maybe we could just call linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian simple stitch and the back-linked stitches for short rows of Tunisian top stitch?

Well... my problem is that I need to add a disclaimer here. I believe some has argued that linked stitches are NOT Tunisian stitches. I don't see any difference, but now I'm not sure, if we should call them one thing or another - or if the purpose and way of thinking of them can justify two different names.

Funny world, right?

I'll show you how to link crochet stitches and eliminate the slit between them.


It is very useful, if you want to use a tall stitch for an amigurumi figure or just want another stitch in your stitch collection.