We took a break the other day and went to the beach. I grabbed one of my older ideas on the way out and got this little beauty for you.
You really don't need that little knot in the beginning of your next crochet project. Here is a video showing how to avoid it.
It works with regular crochet as well as Tunisian and it doesn't matter how you like to hook into your starting chain.
It works with regular crochet as well as Tunisian and it doesn't matter how you like to hook into your starting chain.
Tunisian Crochet is fun and can be very meditative. Here is how you make a traditional foundation row to get started.
Now turn your work sideways, so you can see all the bumps that might usually be on the back of your work. These are the loops you will insert the hook into.
Choose whatever works best for you with a specific Tunisian Crochet Project.
If you are a newbie to Tunisian Crochet, try it!
Updated September 2021. Originally posted as part of the Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch from 2016.
Tunisian Crochet in General
Is this your first try on Tunisian Crochet? If so, you should know it is all about a forward motion/ forward pass and a back motion/return pass. On the forward pass, you pick up loops. On the return pass, you finalize each of the crochet stitches.You also insert the hook a little different from regular crochet in most cases - as you have other options here - which makes the stitches look a bit different too.
However, the way you work each of the stitches is still crocheting.
The outcome of a Tunisian Crochet piece can be a lot more like knitting, which is great for the drape and thereby for making wearables, scarfs, and other soft crochet pieces.
Tunisian Foundation Row
Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Most hooks will easily have space for 10 stitches on the neck. Else, just make fewer chains in this tutorial.
1) Chain row
Make a slip stitch and insert the hook. Crochet 9 chains for a foundation. This will give you 10 stitches, as the loop on your hook is number 10.
Now turn your work sideways, so you can see all the bumps that might usually be on the back of your work. These are the loops you will insert the hook into.
2) Forward Pass - pick up loops
Insert your hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. (Some skip the first bump and it CAN be difficult to hook into. So if it suits you better, do that.)Yarn over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. They stay there during the forward motion.
*Insert the hook into the next bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.* Repeat this till you have used all bumps. When you have reached the end, you have 10 loops on your hook.
*Yo and pull through two loops.* Repeat until you only have one loop left on the hook.
AVOID the temptation to pull tight, when there is only one loop left on the hook. You can tighten your work so much, that it is difficult to proceed from here with a nice result.
*Insert the hook into the next bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.* Repeat this till you have used all bumps. When you have reached the end, you have 10 loops on your hook.
3) Return Pass - complete each stitch
Chain one. (Yo and pull through one loop only). This is the left edge of your work.
*Yo and pull through two loops.* Repeat until you only have one loop left on the hook.
AVOID the temptation to pull tight, when there is only one loop left on the hook. You can tighten your work so much, that it is difficult to proceed from here with a nice result.
Tadaa!! Now you are ready for your next row :)
From here most people learn the Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss), the most commonly known stitch in the Tunisian Crochet world.
You could also try something nice and a bit different like the lovely Tunisian Top Stitch. It's one of my favorite stitches and it doesn't get enough attention in the crochet world.
You could also try something nice and a bit different like the lovely Tunisian Top Stitch. It's one of my favorite stitches and it doesn't get enough attention in the crochet world.
You will find a tutorial right here: Tutorial: Tunisian Top Stitch
Did You Know?
Instead of starting with a chain row, it is also possible to do a cast-on. You can either do the Tunisian Single Hook cast on or the Tunisian Crochet Cast On. The last one requires two hooks but is really beautiful and very popular on this site.
Choose whatever works best for you with a specific Tunisian Crochet Project.
Learn to crochet the Tunisian top stitch - aka bump stitch. It is a VERY easy stitch and the stitch is also very fast to work with.
You crochet beautiful scarfs and more with this stitch.
If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.
If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.
If you are new to Tunisian crochet, this is a great stitch to learn, as it is very different from other Tunisian crochet stitches.
Updated and split into two posts in September 2021. Originally from September 2016.
Tunisian Top Stitch
Choose a yarn and a hook that is at least two sizes bigger than the yarn label suggests. Make a foundation row of just about 10 chains - or cast on if you prefer that. Now you are ready for the first row of Tunisian Crochet Top Stitches.
Related posts:
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)
- Tunisian Crochet Foundation Row
- Tunisian Crochet Cast On (2 hooks)
- Tunisian Single Hook Cast On (1 hook)
Forward Pass
You need to locate and hook into the 'bump' from the return passes. It's on top - and maybe a little behind - the vertical strings, we often use in Tunisian crochet. It is very similar to the back bumps of a chain row you use for a traditional foundation row.
Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.
If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.
Tilt your work a little if it helps to find the right bump.
If your last stitch of the first row got tight, it might be impossible to see or enter the first bump. So, be careful about that.
1. Insert the hook into the first bump, right next to the hook. Yarn-over (yo) and pull through one loop. You now have 2 loops on the hook. (img below)
2. *Insert the hook into a bump, yo, and pull through one loop only.*
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.
Repeat ** till you have all 10 loops on the hook.
Return Pass
3. Left edge: Chain one (pull through one loop only).
4. *Yo and pull through two loops.*
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.
Repeat ** till you have only 1 loop left on the hook.
You are now done with the second row :) Make a couple more rows just for practice.
Finishing Off
You end it like you do on regular crochet. Cut the yarn end and pull it through the last loop on the hook - at the right side of your work.Tips
Tip 1. Leave extra long ends when you start and when you finish. Weaving the ends in and out takes more yarn than other stitches.
Tip 2. When you are doing a back motion, then stretch the work a little with your left hand. This gives your work a more uniform look.
Tip 3. In a return pass: When you need to pull yarn from the yarn ball, then hold on to the first loop with your index finger, so you don't accidentally pull the previous bump too tight.
Make a Scarf
Imagine a scarf made purely with the Tunisian Top Stitch. Great drape, right?!If you want a little extra, then try the 3 Skein Scarf with the neat color change.
Have fun with it :)
Everyone is asking for patterns for easy and warm hats.
Even if you are a beginner, you might not need a pattern. At least not if you just want something simple. Here is a guide you can follow and make great rounded hats from.
Even if you are a beginner, you might not need a pattern. At least not if you just want something simple. Here is a guide you can follow and make great rounded hats from.
I see a lot of questions these days about how to get circles like Rozeta* - but also squares - to lay flat and avoid the wonky look.
There are more things you can do to avoid wavy edges.
There are more things you can do to avoid wavy edges.
Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.
From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).
Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.
Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.
I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?
I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.
I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.
The Color Pattern
I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.
Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart
Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.
Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens
This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.
Hook. Use a 5mm hook
Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).
- - -
Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.
Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.
From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).
Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.
Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.
The Thumb
Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.
Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.
Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).
Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).
Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.
Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.
The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.
Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.
Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.
Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).
Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).
Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.
Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.
Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).
Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.
Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.
Finalizing the Hand
Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.
Finalizing the Thumb
Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.
Would You like to Try?
Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.
Have fun :)
It's just not at all impossible. Nor do you need to cut the yarn and sew in ends all the time.
We tend to forget that this stitch is very versatile and can be used for much more. It can give your work a dense - though soft and drapable - fabric, you can use it for decoration, and it can be used for a stretchy ribbing.
Have you figured out by now, what stitch I'm referring to?
It takes advantage of the natural curling of a crocheted work and it will also help you prevent the rolling of the rest of your work.
I don't like knots or sewing in ends. If I do amigurumi, I prefer to crochet over the yarn ends whenever possible. In almost every other case I prefer the Russian Join. To my experience, It can be used with most yarns and it blends in very well. I also use the Russian Join, if I suddenly find a knot in the middle of my yarn ball.
Christmas gets closer every day. All full of love and (Xmas) hearts. Here is a free heart pattern for you.
I'll guide you at the beginning of the diagram as well as at the parts, when new things happen. So even if you are a newbie, you should be able to finalize this.
I'll guide you at the beginning of the diagram as well as at the parts, when new things happen. So even if you are a newbie, you should be able to finalize this.
The twisted single crochet stitch adds charm to your project without too much fuss. Perfect for a simple border to frame your crochet work.
Also, we’ve all had an edgy border, that could use a little LTC. The Twisted Single Crochet Stitch will help you do that. It is simple and easy to do.
The twisted single crochet stitch is an excellent alternative to the crab stitch or the reverse single crochet stitch.
Note for British Crocheters - The term single crochet (SC) in US patterns corresponds to the double crochet (DC) in British terminology.
The Twisted Single Crochet Stitch - Instructions
- Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop.
- Pro tip: Expand the stitch a little - about
twice as tall as usual. This makes the twist stand out and keeps the border softer and easier to work with.
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Next, gently turn your hook towards yourself and all the way around. Counter-clockwise if you are right-handed (clockwise if you’re left-handed). This twists the loops on the hook.
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Finish the stitch with a yarn-over and pull through all loops.
Hearts to Love
Looking for a heart pattern to pair with the twisted single crochet stitch? Try the World Heart Day crochet pattern!.
For more heartwarming designs, explore the other heart patterns here at stonegnome.com.
I'm experimenting with mitered corners and have developed a way to do the left side increase without it being too tight and knotted.
Contrary to what you might think, crocheting with 3 strands doesn’t mean juggling 3 separate yarn balls. In fact, you can work with just one yarn ball, avoiding the mess altogether.
It’s not as tricky as it sounds, but it helps to be comfortable with your stitches to avoid confusion with the extra strands.
It’s not as tricky as it sounds, but it helps to be comfortable with your stitches to avoid confusion with the extra strands.
This post was originally published in March 2018 and was re-written as of October 2024.
Comparison. Regular vs 3-strand Yarn
Below, I’ve compared a regular wool yarn with a 3-strand wool yarn. Both have the same (total) weight per length, and the single crochet stitch rows were made with the same hook.
You’ll notice that the 3-strand yarn creates a slightly fluffier texture, taking up a bit more space than the regular yarn, even though their weight is the same.
Guide - Avoid the Mess
You can create 3 strands from a single skein or ball, preventing the tangles you’d get from using 3 separate balls. To do this, fold the yarn to triple it, as shown in the photo, and make the tripled yarn long - longer than what’s shown. I prefer making it at least 1 meter (40 inches) at a time.
Make your slip knot as usual - or skip it* - and begin your project.
Simply pull on the end of your working yarn so it unfolds from the loop. Keep pulling until you have another long section of 3-stranded yarn to work with.
If you prefer a video demonstration, Ira Rot has a helpful video tutorial for this technique.
TIPS
A few tips to make your projects easier:
Hide Folding Points
In most cases, the points where you fold the yarn won’t show in the final project. However, if you’re working on a particularly delicate or detailed project, it is possible to hide them. You can either adjust the tension slightly, which will move the folding point. - Or - if the folded point lands on the front loop, simply remove the loop from your hook and turn it around so that the front loop becomes the back loop.Read more: How to Change and Control Your Tension
Avoid Twisted Strands
Twisted strands will look different from not-twisted strands. It can affect the way they 'Fluff'. To keep the strands straight and airy, straighten them whenever you notice a twist. This extra attention can help maintain a special texture that adds extra to certain projects.Hook Size
When comparing 3 strands to a same-weight regular yarn, a good rule of thumb is to use the same hook size. However, you might also benefit from using a hook 1-2 sizes larger (1-2 mm) since the fluffiness fills in the stitches differently and takes up more space making your project look more substantial without extra material.
Yarn Usage
A larger hook size, also means you may need a little less yarn for your project—not a bad bonus!
Again - it all depends on your project, though totally worth to try.
Perfect for...
3-stranded yarn is particularly well-suited for looser and more open stitch patterns or in exchange for a bulky yarn.Read more: Comfy Crochet Footies
In open stitch patterns, you’ll really see the difference compared to using regular yarn. Some great stitch patterns to try include the Moss Stitch (and for my Danish readers: 'vævehækling') or the Tunisian Full Stitch. But don’t limit yourself—feel free to experiment with any stitch pattern!
Left: Moss Stitch in regular crochet. Right: Tunisian Full Stitch
I’ve worked on several projects using the 3-stranded crochet technique, and I absolutely love the texture and feel it creates. Check out how 3 strands look with the Tunisian Reverse Stitch.
I haven’t tried felting with this method yet, but it seems promising - definitely something to experiment with in the future!
Enjoy
The latest StoneGnome pattern where you can use the 3-stranded technique is the Comfy Crochet Footies.
Enjoy exploring this completely new world of textures and styles you can create with 3 strands of yarn.
