StoneGnome

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If you haven't met the cute Junior Egg already, let me introduce you now. He/she likes to sit in a nest of yarn - or hang from a twig or a tree. And the Junior Egg pattern is free!

Years ago, right before Easter, the kids and I played with paper and cardboard and we came up with an egg with legs because it was pretty easy to draw and cut out and glue.

We loved it! We thought the result was eggcellent. An egg with a lot of personality. So I thought. Why not make a crochet version?

Materials

Hook size 2-2.5mm (US 0-B1, UK 14-13)
Scissors
A long piece of scrap yarn to use a stitch marker
Filling

Yarn

Cotton yarn with yardage around 170m/50gr (186y/1.76oz)

A tiny bit of white and orange.

Spiral Note
The egg and leg are worked in a spiral. Working in a spiral means working in continuous rounds without ending each round with a slip stitch. Put your scrap yarn stitch marker in place, when a round is done, and continue with the next round immediately. The yarn stitch marker show what round you are working on.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ch = chain
sc = single crochet
inc = increase. Make two sc in the same stitch.
dec = decrease. Work 2 sc together.
3dec = decrease by working 3 sc together.
() = repeat instructions between parentheses as many times as directed – OR throughout the round/row.
[] = the number of stitches in a round or row.

Junior Egg Pattern

Work in a spiral.

Begin with 5sc in a magic ring. Pull tight. [5]

Increase with 5 stitches in each round like this:

1 inc in each stitch all the way. [10]
(inc, 1 sc) 5 times. [15]
(sc, inc, sc) 5 times. [20]
(inc, 3 sc) 5 times. [25]
(2 sc, inc, 2 sc) 5 times. [30]
(inc, 5 sc) 5 times. [35]

Round 8-15. (8 rounds in total). Work straight up now – no increases. 1 sc in each stitch. [35]

For shaping the top of the egg, I recommend invisible decreases*: Insert the hook into the front loops of the next 2 stitches right after each other (do not yarn-over in between). Yarn-over and pull through two loops. Yarn-over and pull through the last loop.

*Don't make invisible decreases if you plan to turn the backside out like I sometimes to do.

1 sc, (dec, 15 sc) 2 times. [33]
(9 sc, dec) 3 times. [30]
(4 sc, dec, 4 sc) 3 times. [27]
(7 sc, dec) 3 times. [24]
(3 sc, dec, 3 sc) 3 times. [21]

Add fill. Add more fill after the next couple of rounds.

(5 sc, dec) 3 times. [18]
(2 sc, dec, 2 sc) 3 times. [15]
(1 sc, dec) 5 times. [10]

Remove your marker. The closing off is not worked in full rounds.

Closing Off the Egg

Cut a long yarn end. Expand the loop on the hook and pull until the yarn end is out and the work secured.

Attach a needle to the yarn end. Insert the needle into the front loop of every stitch all the way around (9 stitches). Pull tight and the hole closes.

Only if needed, secure the yarn again, by weaving it in and out a couple of times.

Use the yarn end for hanging the egg on a twig.

Related blog post: The Easter Bunny Egg pattern

Bunny Egg & Junior Egg

Leg

Work in a spiral.

Foundation option #1: Ch 5. Slip stitch it into a ring. [5]
Foundation option #2: Magic Ring with 5 sc. [5]

1-6) Sc all the way for 6 rounds.

7) Toe: Ch 4.

8) Use the back bumps of the chains. Skip the first and slip stitch into the next three.

9) Slip stitch into the middle of the foot through front and backside.

10) - 11) Repeat line 7-8.
12) Slip stitch into the left side of the foot.

13) - 14) Repeat line 7-8.
15) Slip stitch into the side of the foot again.

Finishing Off

Cut a long yarn end and pull the yarn end through the slip stitch.

Pull the yarn through the leg, so both yarn ends are at the top of the leg. (Find the nearest ’hole’ to pull it through. Use a needle or your hook).

Make another leg.

Sew the legs on the egg. Place them somewhat on the same side. ’Fold’ the legs, with the toes pointing forward and the ’knees’ slightly bend.

Thank you to Sofiia Norah Rasmussen for helping me test this with short, short notice.

If you want ideas of how to make a colored version, then check what Margie did on Instagram and give her a little love.

Enjoy!

Note. The original blog post is from March 2017. The latest update is of March 2021.

Share and Selling Note
You are welcome to share or sell any products you make from my patterns. :)
Read more about copyright and selling here.

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Suddenly there were Bernie Sanders' mittens all over. What a joy and GREAT inspiration :) Like many other yarn geeks, I've tried to see if I could figure out the color pattern of the mittens.

I'm not sure, though I will make the actual mittens. However, I do have quite a detailed idea of HOW I would do it and maybe this could be of interest to you?

I would crochet in the round in waistcoat stitches (ws), so the mittens got the knitted feeling and would be as warm and cozy as they look at the photos of Bernie Sanders.

The Color Pattern

I had great fun making the color pattern. I used a drawing app on my iPad, that can do grids and layers, but I can also recommend StitchFiddle if you want to make your own stitch pattern and be sure your gauge works well.

Related blog post: From Image to Crochet Chart

Here is my green version of the color pattern. Choose whatever color you like.

Sketching Bernie Sanders Mittens

This is ONLY A SKETCH, but if you are interested in trying, you are welcome to use it. I will also gladly help you if you stumble upon something here, that you need help with.

Hook. Use a 5mm hook

Yarn. Stretchy wool yarn blend with yardage around 200m/50gr. Fingering (or possible Sport).

- - -

Foundation. Chain 30-42 to start with. A number divisible by 3. (Might need a swatch to test the gauge). Turn the chain row into a circle with a slip stitch. Work in a spiral.

Cuff ribbing. Crochet *2 ws, 1 ch* for several rows.

From cuff to hand. Waistcoat stitches only. Increase evenly in the first round (maybe two rounds). You will need a number of stitches divisible by 4 - plus 3 extra stitches (like 32+3=35).

Because. The color pattern is made of repeats of 4 stitches and the root of the thumb could require 3 stitches.

Make a couple of extra rounds. 2-4 rounds I think.

The Thumb

Below is how I would try to make the thumb. I would begin the colorwork right after starting the thumb part. So read both parts now.

Place two stitch markers with 3 stitches between them. The stitch markers mark the beginning and end of the hand. In between them is the thumb.

The middle stitch will be worked normally all the time. Increase when working into the other two stitches next to the stitch markers.

Increase at every second round or what works for you. Move the stitch markers up accordingly. Always increase in a stitch right next to the stitch marker and on the thumb-side of that stitch marker.

Once the base of the thumb is done, simply skip the thumb stitches and continue with the hand part (= skipping all the thumb stitches between the stitch markers).

Do the thumb-increase for something like 5cm (2inches).

Color Work
After initiating the thumb, I would start working on the color pattern as well. The stitch markers marking the thumb are placed in the first and last stitch of the hand. These are also the last and first stitches of the colorwork. So just pretend the thumb isn't there when you look at the color diagram.

Use a solid color for the thumb - or carry through the color from the color pattern.

Color Change Tips
Prepare a color change by changing yarn when you do the last YO-pull-through of a stitch. (Right before the visual color change).

Carry the un-used yarn color on the wrong side of the work or hide it by crocheting over it.

Finalizing the Hand

Carry on with the colorwork until you have about an inch left of the desired length of the mitten. Decrease on both sides at every round now.

Hopefully, you are now working with the dark color and don't have to figure out the colorwork at the same time.

Finalizing the Thumb

Crochet the rest of the thumb in any color. Work straight up till it is long enough and then decrease all the way around.

Would You like to Try?

Would you like to try? I'll be here to help you if you run into trouble. And who knows. Hubby asked for fingerless gloves long ago. One day, I might make him a pair using the color pattern above.

Have fun :)

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To all the little stars in the world. Crochet a little star or two.

In a few weeks, it is December 1st. I'm not good at being ahead of the season, but this year my sweet kids started making little ornaments a while ago, so I joined them.

Making the star pattern was a bit frustrating at first. :) Sometimes making things very simple is difficult. I also wanted it to somehow match the Valentine's heart, which can be used as a Christmas decoration as well.

Read more: See more hearts at Stonegnome

I think they will look good together in a window or at the Christmas tree.

Below is the crocheted star pattern. Have fun ❤️

Star Pattern

While working on the pattern it can be difficult to see the star shape. The further you get, the better it should be, and once blocked and shaped, it should be just how you want it.

Little star: around 5cm wide (2")
Medium star: around 6cm wide (2.4").

hook size 2.25-2.5mm (US: B/1, UK 13)
cotton yarn. Yardage around 170m/50g (185y/1.76oz)
optional. A stitch marker.
glasses, if needed.

Abbreviations (US terms)

ss = slip stitch
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
yo = yarn over

[ ] = instructions for the medium star

Foundation

Chain 30 [medium star, chain 40]. Join with a ss to make a ring.

Optional. Turn the work, so you can see the back bumps of your chains. Hook into the back bumps.

1) chain 3
2) 1 dc and 1 hdc in the base of the 3 chains
3) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Now make a cluster-decrease of two hdc with a skipped chain between. like this:

4) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
5) skip a chain
6) yo, insert the hook into the next chain and pull up a loop
7) yo and pull through all 5 loops on the hook

Continue with:

8) 1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Star point

Tip: when working a lot of stitches into a single chain, the chain right AFTER might get very tight. Avoid it being tight by inserting a stitch marker into it before you start the previous group of stitches.

9) (optional. Place a stitch marker in the second chain from the hook)
Make 5 stitches in the next chain (= the first chain from the hook): 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1dc, 1hdc

Continue with:

10) (optional. Remove the stitch marker)
1 hdc in the next chain [medium star, repeat the line]

Repeat from line 4 until you reach the last star point, which is already halfway done.

(The initial 3 chains you made in the beginning, are substituting the tr.)

11) In the base of the 3 chains make two more stitches: 1hdc, 1dc

Join with a ss, cut the yarn, and secure it by pulling it through the last loop on the hook. Sew in the yarn end from your foundation chain. Make it come out at the top of the star. Use the two yarn ends for hanging up the ornament.

Wash and block* it for a perfect shape and you've got a star!

Let me know if you find any typos in the pattern. ❤️

*Wash and block

I highly recommend blocking for the best final touch.

Handwash the star. Press out excess water by wrapping it in a towel. Place the star on a flat surface and pull the outer and inner star points till you are happy with the shape. Use water-safe needles and a foamboard or likewise if you prefer - I just do it freehand.

The star points can be pointed or more rounded. Let the star dry.

Make a Whole Family of Stars

You might have figured out by now how to make an even bigger star. Every time you add 10 more chains to the foundation row you go up one size. And the line with 1 hdc is also repeated once more (lines 3, 8, 10).

I tried and ended up with 4 different sizes of stars. After blocking and a little nursing, even the bigger one got very good.

I'm not sure how far you can go and keep the shape, but feel free to try :) Just be aware that the larger the star, the more wobbly it will be and you might need to use stiffener if it is to be hung up.

Tag me on Instagram @stonegnomedesign to show me your star(s).

Enjoy!

Sell & Share

You are welcome to sell/share any products you make from my patterns. For further information look at Copyright and Selling